For wine geeks, Oasi is indeed an oasis of a Mediterranean sort, one filled with wines heavy on acidity, minerality and all the other stuff we crave. It’s the work of John Szabo, Canada’s only Master Sommelier and the head of Toronto’s Centre for Vine Affairs wine school. He’s organized his eclectic selection by style, setting off each section of the list with a photograph that captures the defining characteristic of the wines within: Water cascading down a sheer rock face leads off "tears from stones," a section of mineral-laden whites such as Sigalas Santorini and Allram’s Strasser Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner; a swath of ethereal gauze introduces "caressed by silk," an array of finely textured reds such as Raffault’s Clos des Capucins Chinon and Sangiovanni’s Rosso Piceno. Most bottles run less than $100, with many available by the glass or 3-ounce taste–all the better to graze your way through the marinated sardines, marjoram-scented grilled octopus and other Mediterranean-inspired dishes chef Todd Clarmo turns out.

—T. Q. Thomas

Oasi, 99 Sudbury St., Toronto, Canada; 416-849-6567, theoasi.com (reviewed W&S 6/09)