CITYSCENE
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Abattoir
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Two meat hooks dangle globe-shaped light fixtures in the center of the rustic-chic dining room at Abattoir. They are the only clues that the restaurant, whose name is French for slaughterhouse, resides in what used to be a meat-processing facility. As befitting the location, chef owners Anne Quatrano, Clifford Harrison and Joshua Hopkins delve into head-to-tail creativity with dishes such as lamb sweetbreads in rosemary-scented plum sauce, an herb-scented tripe stew and corned lamb kidneys. The menu contains almost 50 modestly portioned dishes, so stouthearted vegetarians can also feast happily—on local vegetable salads, perhaps, or a confit of mushrooms over grilled sourdough bread. The wine list—with selections ranging from a 2008 Domaine Tariquet Ugni Blanc to a 2005 Mettler Family Petite Sirah—keeps it wholly affordable: Most bottles cost between $15 and $30.
—Bill Addison
Abattoir, 1170 Howell Mill Rd., Atlanta; 404-892-3335,
starprovisions.com (reviewed W&S 10/09)
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ONE Midtown Kitchen
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One. Midtown Kitchen may look like the title of a poem by e e cummings, but it's actually a sexy renovated warehouse with skyline views. No entrée tops $19, yet Chef Kevin Reilly makes earthy griddled goat cheese and whole roasted snapper taste like a million bucks. Owner Bob Amick's affordable boutique wine list hits just four price points ($18, $28, $38 and $48) and offers everything by the glass or half-glass. Gems include a floral Christian Lauverjat Sancerre and a supple '99 Larkmead Firebelle from Napa.
—Suzanne Wright
One. Midtown Kitchen, 559 Dutch Vly. Rd., Atlanta, GA; 404-892-4111.
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Holeman & Finch
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With a menu as meaty and masculine as an issue of Field & Stream, Holeman & Finch Public House is also nearly as adventurous. Linton Hopkins heads up this Dixified effort, with small plates (deviled eggs, marrow, a ham sampler) complemented by an array of wines carefully chosen by Gina Hopkins, Linton's wife. She changes that list often, but every server knows what's on it, and has an opinion about it. For easy access, there's the "Quick and Quaffable" by-the-glass list, which skews to wines that go well with salty snacks-try the lightly fizzy 2006 Michlits Pinot Noir Rosé Frizzante from Austria. Reservations are not accepted, so arrive early or late to avoid a wait.
—Krista Reese
Holeman & Finch, 2277 Peachtree Rd., Atlanta; 404-948-1175,
holeman-finch.com
(reviewed W&S 2/09)
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Cellar 56
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In Buckhead, Atlanta's swankiest neighborhood, chef Paul Agnelli and his partners at Cellar 56 focus on affordability: Small plates, from jumbo lump crab salad with avocado to Guinness-braised short ribs, and prosciutto and green chile-laced mac-and-cheese, run $4 to $5. Charles Smith's Kung Fu Girl Riesling, Hermanos del Villar Oro de Castilla Verdejo and La Posta's "Cocina Blend" of malbec, bonarda and syrah all sell for $3 by the half-glass, $6 for a full glass, and $24 per bottle. From the looks of the nightly crowds, these prices have successfully swayed newly frugal locals.
—Bill Addison
Cellar 56, 56 East Andrews Dr., Atlanta; 404-869-1132,
cellar56.com (reviewed W&S 6/09)
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Flip Burger Boutique
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After impressing Top Chef: Chicago judges with his fauxhawk, liquid nitrogen tank and unusual combinations, Richard Blais is now back in Atlanta, putting Blaisian touches on house-ground beef patties and grill-toasted buns at Flip, his upscale burger joint in booming West Midtown. The burgers draw long lines at all hours, as much for the meat as for sides like sweet potato tater tots with blue cheese foam and the drinks: liquid nitrogen pistachio milkshakes; a "cream soda" of vanilla Cognac, vanilla liqueur, cream and ginger ale; and a rye Manhattan given a twist with smoky, caramelized cherries. Best of all, everything on the menu is under $10.
—Krista Reese
Flip Burger Boutique, 1587 Howell Mill Rd., Atlanta;
404-352-3547,
flipburgerboutique.com (reviewed W&S 6/09)
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Nam
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Nam is a feast for the eyes. Atlanta's first upscale Vietnamese restaurant is swaddled in gossamer drapes and bathed in a ruby hue from slinky light sculptures. Servers in silvery gowns patiently coach first-timers on the proper way to eat the restaurant's signature rice flour tamales wrapped in banana leaves. The 30-bottle wine list is succinct but captivating: Clean, bright whites like Austrian grüner veltliner from Domäne Wachau and unwooded chardonnay from Australian Trevor Jones shine alongside spicy clay pot catfish and tamarind soft-shell crabs, while spicy reds like Domaine du Grand Montmirail's spunky Gigondas find a soul mate in Nam's take on the "shaking" filet mignon (made famous by San Francisco's The Slanted Door). No desserts are offered, but the tropical flavors of Vignobles Lorgeril's Viognier de Pennautier make a fine substitute at meal's end.
—Bill Addison
Nam, 931 Monroe Dr., Suite A-101, Atlanta, GA; 404-541-9997
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Sampan
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Sampan strives to take the guesswork out of pairing wine with modern Chinese cuisine. Master Sommelier Michael McNeill has coupled each entree with a precise, by-the-glass match. The easygoing, aromatic Domaine de la Terre Rouge's 2002 Enigma draws out the subtle smokiness of lobster in creamy black bean sauce. Steak in peppercorn-mushroom sauce finds a feisty partner in a tempranillo from Mapema in Argentina. With the wine puzzle solved, the other beguiling aspect of a meal at Sampan remains the dining room, a haunting collage of glass and mirrors that evokes the settings of Sean Connery-era James Bond flicks.
—Bill Addison
Sampan, 1198 Howell Mill Rd., Atlanta, GA; 404-367-8333;
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