Pomerol

A sleeper of the vintage with soft grapey flavors that open up to a mineral, earthy richness. The tannins are a little grainy but this is a well-made Pomerol that will offer good early drinking. - FM

A newcomer from the Moueix stable with a good location on the Pomerol plateau. This is textbook Pomerol with a pretty forward red fruit element, some heat and spice in the middle and quite a lot of oak peeking through the tannins. The wine finishes light and fresh. - FM

Dark and inky, the color has a polished gloss. This is well balanced, lush and profound with layers of merlot fruit, truffles and mineral. There is alcohol here and some extraction but this is a pretty wine that will please many. - FM

Rich and fairly extracted in the aroma, with ripe, juicy fruit. The medium weight of the wine makes it feel attractive and elegant on the palate with berry character and very fine tannins. Perhaps a little disjointed at the moment but there is lots of potential here and the finish is fresh and long. Good drinking 2014-2025. - FM

Very dark and inky in color, fresh and grapey in flavor, this is a pure, red fruit compote of merlot. Classic Pomerol in its silky tannins, in the smoky, almost bacon element and the round, sexy finish. Very good for long-term drinking. - FM

The first vintage made in a new cellar and under the supervision of Lafite's Charles Chevalier (can this man put a foot wrong?) this is the best L'Evangile of the modern era. Fresh, perfumed and a touch exotic with red fruit character, this has great purity and freshness (there's a little pepper and mint in the finish). Gorgeous depth. - FM

A fresh light and spicy aroma announces a pretty wine with some sweetness and red fruit character. This is one of the lighter Pomerols of the vintage with pinpoint acidity and a vinous, lightly spicy finish. - FM

Catherine Péré-Vergé of Crystal d'Arques has worked to transform Le Gay into a showplace. Michel Rolland consults on the wine, which has beautiful, high-toned florals up front and an equally delicate fruit scent. The oak feels a little heavy, the tannins a little firm for the tenderness of the fruit, but all in all, it's a fashionable Pomerol and a rich pleasure. - JG

Deep color. The aroma of truffles and earth is richly scented. Lots of oak, with good depth of fruit that's expressive and rich with warm, ripe velvety tannins. - FM

Clean and soft, with smooth tannins that last with a savory flavor-the fruitiness of black mushrooms and chocolate. Pretty and relatively light. - JG

The wine has lovely sweet fruit ripeness, medium weight and good density. This is well made, concentrated, round and complete, the tannins finely balanced. It's a pretty wine for relatively early drinking. - FM

Hosanna is just beginning to show its potential class after several years under the Moueix stable. This 2005 has a fresh aroma, light structure with good merlot character. There is depth to the flavor although it seems rather extracted. This is a wine with fairly solid tannins that will need plenty of aging to soften. - FM

A well-known Pomerol made by the young Alain Moueix, this is always good value. Fragrant with lots of fruit and a minty, spicy undertone. For the moment the wine seems a bit disjointed but this should mellow out in a few months. - FM

One of the most successful vintages of this Pomerol estate, owned by Catherine Péré-Vergé of Le Gay. There is a vinous, lifted aroma with scents of autumn fruits. The wine is a little hard and tannic at first, with spicy, licorice notes. Then it becomes broader and finishes with an attractive freshness. - FM

Fresh plummy and ripe with frank merlot character. The fruit is sweet and lush, the finish elegant. If this wine continues to taste like this after bottling, then it will be a sleeper and a good value to boot. - FM

This wine offers a full share of extract, feeling generous. The tannins win out in the end, tightening around the black fruit but not weighing it down. Those tannins have an intriguing gamy element and a lot of minerality. This should prove complex and tremendously satisfying. - JG

A classic wine. The scent offers more herbs and peppers than fruit. Warm and spicy, the flavors open toward a minerality that lasts. Sinewy tannins will take years to evolve. - FM

The freshness of the vintage gives some young Pomerols a blueberry tone, which this wine builds into tight, dense and almost gritty black tannins. - JG

Forward fruit character follows through this wine with medium weight and an attractive light, spicy mineral character on the finish. A sleeper. - FM

This wine shows the freshness of the vintage in its lovely bright fruit and beautiful earthy character. Impressive finesse. - JG

Very dark and inky with scents of chocolate truffles and ripe cherries. The sweet merlot character balances earthy, mineral and truffley flavors. Very expressive, approachable and elegant. - FM

This fresh, merlot-scented wine captures the energy of the vintage. It feels willowy, breezy, with beautiful aromas rising out of the flavor. From a six-hectare vineyard adjacent to Pétrus, made by Jean-Claude Berrouet. - JG

Fresh scents of minerals, earth and truffles. This is pretty with spicy, fresh red fruit and mineral flavors. This wine vibrates with life. - FM

As at Vieux Château Certan, cabernet franc plays a significant role at Jacques Guinaudeau's Lafleur, the small vineyard wedged between VCC and Pétrus. In 2005, the wine is gentle, with a lovely energy as it expands on the palate with tender fruit and peppery tannins. A pleasure even now, this should develop well. - JG

Soft and round, plummy and fresh with gorgeous, juicy berry flavors. Quite big and plump. This finishes with intensity, the length of its finely tuned tannins is impressive. - FM

A sense of refinement runs through this wine, even with the musky animale scent it carries over wild blueberry aromas. It feels soft, cushioned by tannins rather than enveloped by them. - JG

Another classic from the Moueix stable: This is fresh in the aroma, round and grapey in the initial flavors. The tannins are also fresh, finishing long and attractive. Very pretty. - FM

From Jacques Thienpont's two hectares of merlot on gravel over clay, Le Pin defies the stereotype of a garagist wine by emphasizing grace and harmony over extract. The '05 is floral at first, the delicacy of its physical presence contrasting, but not overwhelmed by the power and sophistication in the tannins. Oak adds a luscious undertone, sustaining the clarity of red merlot fruit for minutes after each taste. Next to the 2004, this feels brighter and more transparent, the '04 silken, blacker, sitting a little lower in the mouth. Thienpont says the '05 is more elegant, the '04 a bit fuller, more rustic-he sticks out his elbows and lowers his knees. The '05 is a great Le Pin, an ultimate expression of merlot. - JG

The new chai at Vieux Château Certan, completed in 2004, helped Alexander Thienpont achieve the simple elegance of this 2005. It shows both the clarity of his winemaking and the greatness of this vineyard-which neighbors Pétrus on the top of the Pomerol plateau. The wine is poised for years of development, a fascinating acidity woven into the fabric of the tannins. The brightness of the fruit holds its presence for minutes after a taste. Rather than density or intensity, VCC has beauty and surety. Made from a selection of 80 percent merlot with cabernet franc from relatively young vines, which performed better than older franc in this vintage. Brilliant-the best of Pomerol in 2005. - JG

This vintage of Nenin contains 26 percent cabernet franc, which contributes tension and a little tannic bitterness to the merlot. What lasts is the fresh, black raspberry flavor. There's an inner core of strength to the wine, and it should age well. - JG

Last year marked the return to form for this historic Pomerol estate, which is now under the ownership of the Delon family of Léoville Las Cases. This year the wine is delicious with fresh merlot fruitiness, suave and open with truffley, almost minty flavors and good concentration. It finishes with elegance. - FM

The aromatic power of Pétrus gives an immediate indication that the wine rises to a higher level than others in the Moueix stable. The flavors have the harmonic resonance of a pipe organ, the breadth of tone. Then it feels as if someone took their foot off the organ pedal, the richness and power of the wine comes to an end in the close rather than the far distance. Even so, it's not over done; the terroir can handle the winemaking. Its youthful flavor is a mineral bath, intensely umami, a direct sense of the soil. Riveting complexity. This will need decades to develop. - JG

Compact and rich in the aroma, with some austerity. Pétrus has lovely depth in 2005, surprisingly soft and open with spicy, anise-like flavor. Then the lovely ripe tannins and richness turn back toward all the power in the wine, almost stern in the finish. Impressive intensity and long, fresh acidity; this has a long life ahead. It will probably close down for at least eight years before re-emerging sleek and long. - FM

When this property makes a great wine, which admittedly isn't all that often, wine lovers rush to snap it up and the 2005 could well be one of those vintages. This is warm and extracted. - FM

Located next door to Ausone, Belair grew a generous wine in 2005, tender at the core with meaty blue and black fruit filling out its tannic intensity. It's chewy without excess weight, strong enough to balance its oak. Impressively long. - JG

The expressive scent offers sweet, ripe plum and cherry fruit. This is composed and elegant in the middle, lively and almost peppery in the finish-long and fresh. This will be long lived. - FM

On the western edge of the St-Emilion plateau, this vineyard delivered a bright young wine in 2005, filled with dark blueberry flavor and rich, silken texture that in no way diminishes the sense of freshness. - JG

A simple young wine, soft and smooth with dark cherry flavors well balanced by tannin, this should mature well. - JG

Very pretty, ripe merlot aromatics. The rich tannins feel silky, and together with the fruit, leave a soft freshness in the mouth. Not a huge wine this year but rich and pleasant with good concentration. - FM

Brilliant, dark purple color. The rich scent of ripe blackberries and boysenberries melds with an interesting herbal element that shows freshness. A little dense in tannin and hot in the finish, but overall, the wine is balanced and rich. - FM

Here's a generous, crowd-pleasing wine with sweet blueberry flavors and spicy oak. The wood tannins are gracefully integrated, enhancing the concentrated feel without harshness or heat. The fruit flavors last, and should evolve over the next eight to ten years. A merlot with refinement and power. - JG

La Dominique is much improved in 2005. The aroma is flashy with dark scented fruit. The flavors are superripe, plummy and rich; concentrated without being too extracted. This should offer good drinking in ten years, and for a decade thereafter. - FM

This property had been lovingly managed for years by Corinne Guisez, so it's good to see it produce such a pretty wine under the new ownership. There is briary fruit with fresh mint and lots of length. Both freshness and power are evident in the finish. It could be a rare bargain this year for mid-term drinking. - FM

Rich as a flourless chocolate cake, this wine coasts along on the smoothness of its tannin. A bit short for now, but seductively rich. - JG

A beautiful Figeac with spice and mint scents and lovely red currant fruit. It tastes refined and elegant, almost old fashioned (can wines resemble their owners?) but there is freshness and depth here and a lush, long mineral finish. This is a classic wine that will offer beautiful drinking in 10 years time, and continue on for another twenty. - FM

An exceptional value from the stable of Alain Vauthier, who is making great wines at Ausone. This is pretty, soft and open with fresh berry fruit flavors. Lively on the palate and although fairly small scale, this is fresh and attractive and will drink well when young. - FM

A surprise for many people this week, this emerging property has produced a bright, sweet, attractive wine with fresh rosehip flavors. Well-made and silky in texture with dense tannins. - FM

This has a clean, lasting flavor, a pretty merlot character that melds blueberry flavors with the smokiness and spiciness of oak. - JG

This firm young wine is balanced between generous fruit and lasting minerality. - JG

Beautiful fruit and fine tannins toned by oak make this into a smooth, muscular young thoroughbred. It's downright delicious, with good development ahead. Nicolas Thienpont is the director for this property; Stephane Derenoncourt consults on the wine. - JG

This vineyard is located on the east side of the St-Emilion plateau as it slopes down to the Côtes de Castillon; it was recently purchased by a partnership between the Seillon and Jackson families (of Kendall-Jackson). Pierre Seillon has now worked three vintages mapping the site and makes two wines from the property: Lassègue from the rocky white limestone and clay soils on the hill and Vignot (a different selection) from the sandier clay and gravel soils below. The 2005 Lassègue has the gentle tenderness of merlot and the cool, dark length of cabernet (the vineyard includes 35 percent cabernet franc and 5 percent cabernet sauvignon). It's sleek and should reward five to eight years in the cellar. - JG

This garage winery is now ten years old and has put in consistently fine performances in recent vintages. Its location (just above Angélus) may account for the richness and purity of fruit here. The blend of 75 percent cabernet franc and 25 percent merlot offers lovely sloe berry and plum scented fruit. There's peppery earthiness in the tannin, finishing with density as well as elegance. This will be ready to drink in eight to ten years. - FM

The fruit feels silken and generous at first, then the tough tannins harden the wine, turning it towards blacker fruit flavors and leather, bittersweet chocolate and smoky aromas. - JG

Youthful purple color, vibrant. Soft on attack then plummy and quite tannic and peppery towards the back of the mouth. Good weight and depth and long in finish. - FM

The most elegant Cheval Blanc in years in spite of its incredible density, concentration and alcohol. It opens up into a mouthful of ripe fruit, suave tannins and oak. The cabernet franc made up 55 percent of the blend this year and it comes through with an oriental spice and red currant flavor. A smoky, pure mineral finish goes on and on. This will be a classic with projected prime drinking from around 2020 onwards. - FM

The finesse of this wine shows in the tannins, balanced between supple and firm, with a sensible level of extract that doesn't hide the fruit. It's pretty and tough, and it should age well. - JG

Dark and rich in color with vibrant purple notes. Good red currant fruit, quite classic with fresh, mineral undertones. There's good linear acidity and fine, tightly grained tannins. New oak is evident but the wine is elegant and well balanced. Unfairly stripped of its Grand Cru Classé status 10 years ago, this wine makes a strong case for a rightful upgrade. - FM

Light with spicy rosehip-scented fruit, this has a racy mineral character. The wine is quite peppery and tannic but there is an interesting red fruit dimension in the finish. Usually a good value, this is a sleeper that will drink well in eight to ten year's time. - FM

The dark color is vibrant, as is the rich, minty scent of cherries. This is not a blockbuster; instead it's very attractive with excellent balance and freshness. One of the more elegant St-Emilions this year and one of the few Bordeaux estates to be run biodynamically. A pretty wine for the mid to long term; try it in eight years. - FM

François Mitjaville, who's been farming this vineyard since the 1980s, says of 2005, "It's the first time in my life I've seen very ripe fruit with high acidity." The ripeness (significant alcohol) delayed malolactic, which was still in process when we tasted it in April. Even so, the wine tastes bright and juicy, with a fragrance that seems to come right out of the area's ancient soils. Refined, with potent length. - JG

The vintage's climate conditions have been ideal for Mitjaville's philosophy of late harvesting and minimum intervention. The wine opens up to lovely soft fruit-scents of red currant and crushed summer berries. The structure is a little hard to discern (since the wine was still going through malolactic), but it's an exuberant and spicy 2005 with lots of charm. - FM

Perched on the edge of St-Emilion centre, Ausone's vines grow over ancient limestone caves that remain cool and fresh even in the middle of summer. The wine that Alain Vauthier has been making in those caves manages to be both rigorously classical and astonishing at once. In 2005, Ausone is substantial, with a harmony and refinement that bodes well for long aging. Everything about it is smooth and detailed, from the floral scent (can a scent be velvet?) to the gentle tannins, all the elements lasting together in one of the longest impressions of any wine in the vintage. - JG

This makes an intense and stern impression. The aroma is oaky, rich with plum-scented fruit. That beautifully pure red fruit peaks out from behind the tannins, which feel cool, fine and very long. The wine is concentrated and rich, yet there is elegance alongside the power. This will be exceptionally long-lived and will not be ready for at least 15 years. - FM

This garage wine from Stephan von Neipperg has earned its stripes-a serious property to be reckoned with, at a super location just behind Troplong Mondot. The wine this year has intensity, brightness and a lot of class. Its aroma is elegant with berries, spice and warmth; the depth of flavor includes a lot of oak but the elements are well blended together and offer potential for long aging. - FM

Bold and chewy, this has a hard mineral character to its tannins and an extremely long finish. Fascinating earthiness. Balanced for a long life ahead. Under the direction of Nicolas Thienpont, this vineyard is at the top of the St-Emilion plateau next to Troplong Mondot, a portion of it farmed biodynamically. - JG

Angélus' black, super-ripe fruit gives it a classy appeal, though the alcohol in the wine seems to have extracted a lot of wood tannins, which makes it finish with a bitterness and a little burn in the throat. - JG

The color is bright, vibrant and deep purple, the aroma warm with super ripe fruit. The good acidity to keep the wine fresh and plummy, and lots of oak influence adding perfume. Concentrated, with a touch of dry, extracted tannin in the finish. - FM

Hubert de Bouard of Angélus now consults for this former Cordier property and the results have been good. There is a warm aroma with lots of spice and mint, then the wine opens up to reveal concentrated tannins. This is a tad too extracted and the finish is disappointingly dry. - FM

Chewy, smoky and black, this is filled with superripe, slightly raisined fruit flavors, which suggests early drinking for its rich pleasures. - JG

Yet another historic St-Emilion estate that has been revamped and is now made in a unabashedly modern style. There is good sweet fruit but the tannins are a little rustic and over extracted. - FM

Sweet and pretty up front, with fresh cherry flavor, this turns toward significant tannin extract and heat. Still, the fruit holds on, and may absorb some of that tannin with age. - JG

This vintage seems to suit this wine, which usually suffers from some greenness. This year, the color is dark and vibrant, the aroma touches on oriental spice and fresh fruit. It needs to integrate its new oak, as for now, the wine finishes rather dry and smoky. - FM

This is quite intense and rich, with lashings of polished oak evident in the aroma. The fruit is superripe with a chunkiness that should mellow with time. This château usually offers good value for mid-term drinking. - FM

This property has undergone dramatic swings in fortune since its inception a decade ago. It's a favorite for those who like ripe, alcoholic, extracted fruit flavor. This year, the fruit is sweeter and spicier but there is still a lot of tannin and a rather chunky, hot finish that I doubt will lead to longevity. - FM

This is sweet and spicy, with an elegant feel up front and a lot of new oak tannins taking over in the end. Wood is primary for now, but there's a beautiful wine underneath that should reverse the equation with time. - JG

Very open, rich scent with oak spice and warmth. The flavors are ripe and juicy with merlot character and good oak integration, the texture as rich as velvet. Impressive sweetness in the middle although the wine finishes with dry, somewhat grainy tannin. - FM

Pierre Bernault, who tends these vines planted in 1901, believes that they survived the frost of 1956 because of the south-southwest slope of the hill, the good ventilation (as the three windmills nearby would suggest) and what he calls a "very hot" clay-limestone soil. The old vines created a beautiful 2005, fresh and bright, potent in flavor rather than over-extracted, with a sure feel to the balance. Easy to love. - JG

We found this gem at Stephane Derenoncourt's La Grappe tasting and if you see it on any American merchant's listings it would be well worth picking this up since the price is around 10 euros en primeur. Made from equal amounts of cabernet franc and merlot, this is perfumed and spicy with lots of red fruit character and a plump, charming, rich texture. It offers natural concentration from those low-yielding old vines. - FM

This over-achiever from Lalande de Pomerol is made by Jean François Janoueix of Pomerol, and it's better than many Pomerols we tasted. Fresh and spicy, with a fragrant mixture of fresh herbs and red fruit, blueberry and rosemary. This is a very attractive wine if a touch rustic in the finish. - FM

Normally I wouldn't recommend purchasing any wines from the Côtes en primeur, but this one, made by François Mitjaville (of Tertre Roteboeuf), has a tendency to sell out fast. There is lots of perfume and oriental spice with ripe, full, almost exuberant fresh fruit. - FM

François Despagne of Corbin Despagne in St-Emilion bought this property in 1999. He makes the wine from merlot (95 percent) and cabernet franc planted on rocky limestone and clay. The 2005 has a lovely freshness, the plump red fruit almost strawberry in tone; the tannins are impressive in their integration and balance. - JG

This wine tastes cool and gentle, with an extraordinary spiciness to the fruit that lasts. It should be a beauty with ten years of age. - JG

Dark purple color with good brightness. A lovely mouthful of sweet, plummy fruit and oak with good balance on the palate. Oak gives richness and a scent of bacon fat in the end but the fresh acidity keeps it all under control. - FM

Sweet fruit balances the savor of dusty tannins in this wine, its grip softened by richness, like beeswax. Lasting and smart, a well-composed Graves. - JG

Good density of color. This is ripe and full on the nose with smoky, gravelly tones that are classic Haut Bailly. There are sweet, ripe flavors of bitter cherries and blueberries before the wood comes in and begins to dominate the fruit. At the end, the charming mineral freshness comes back and leaves an elegant tone. A wine for long aging that shouldn't be touched for at least eight to ten years. - FM

Pure Graves; a stoniness runs through it, as does a streak of ripe fruit. A smooth play on the vintage, full, rich and long. - JG

The best Villa Bel Air I've ever tasted. A lovely Graves from the stable of Jean-Michel Cazes, this has earthy, mineral scents of blackberries and sloes. It is silky and charming with great minerality and a beguiling freshness. Very pretty, for mid-term drinking. - FM

Red: Like many of the best terroirs of Péssac-Léognan, this vineyard performed well in 2005, the deep gravel soils protecting the vines from the drought. The wine is tremendously supple, juicy up front with beautiful fresh cherry flavor. Then the gravelly tannin creates a deep resonance in the end, round and sweet. - JG

Red: A really beautiful Chevalier this year, this has all the class, mineral freshness and elegance in the best of the Graves. The cherry sweetness balances cool, composed tannins with an elegant mineral streak running through the wine. - FM

White: There is a lovely expression of fruit here with minerals, wood and a hint of fresh pineapple. Round, silky and rich, this has quite a lot of alcohol but everything is in balance. It finishes with an attractive smokiness. - FM

Warm and rich scents of chocolate-coated plums. Medium weight with fine but quite dense tannins and a freshly ground pepper character. The smoky, mineral finish makes this a balanced and elegantly composed wine. - FM

Our tasting group broke out into spontaneous applause when we tasted this wine, perhaps because it perfectly sums up the very best of Bordeaux. There is a lot of ripe sweet briary fruit, great acidity and phenolic ripeness evidenced both by the dark color and the packed yet soft tannins. Everything is dense but in proportion, framing the classic mineral earthiness of Haut-Brion with its smoky richness; there is no trace of excess alcohol or ripeness. Like Lafite, this is a supremely elegant wine with hidden depths that the happy few will enjoy discovering for decades ahead. My vote for the most compelling wine of the vintage. Although it is delicious now, I predict this will close down for several years and then emerge as an exceptionally long-lived wine. - FM

The best white wine of Bordeaux has more density than usual with a vibrant lemon yellow color. It has a sweet nose of herbs, wild flowers and the minerality of wet stones after rainfall. There is lots of acidity to balance the richness and a creamy texture probably resulting from the substantial alcohol (14 percent). Grapefruit and mineral scents mingle in the very long, fresh finish. - FM

Dark, inky and intense. There is more merlot than normal in the blend (69 percent) but it has great freshness and purity. The aromas bring ripe, concentrated red currant scents, the wine fine and elegant from the start. A line of pure, fruity acidity extends the flavor, with excellent length of fresh, tobacco and mineral scents in the finish. Beguilingly easy to drink; built for the long term. - FM

Dark, very inky color with sweet ripe cassis fruit. Alcohol shows along with some extracted flavors but the texture is silky and very attractive. In the modern style of Bordeaux with fresh, mouth-coating cassis and oak flavors. This is a serious wine with good freshness in spite of the high-toned tannins and alcohol. - FM

Red: This wine's dark concentrated flavors have an attractive lushness. It's warm and a tad too ripe but there are bundles of smoky plum and blackberry flavor. - FM

White: This is expressive and rich with open aromas of orchard fruits. It finishes with a touch of muesli and a smoky sweetness. - FM

André Lurton's flying winemaker son Jacques is now overseeing the winemaking here. The wine has a darker color and more intensity than in the past with a compact, smoky nose. There is lots of fruit, oak and mineral quality with a richness and extraction that makes the wine a tad chunky and dry, but it is built for the long haul and should offer classic drinking. The white is less successful. - FM

Lush with sweet tannins that taste of caramelized oak, this is smoky, charry and berried in its flavors. It should be ready to drink six to eight years from the vintage. - JG

Red: There is a lot of sweetness in this wine's superripe fruit, almost a touch raisined, echoing the 2003. There's also expensive oak in evidence, creating a velvety texture to support the round, exuberant flavors of jammy cassis as well as the heat. Then it finishes more elegant and serious with good structure due to the quality of the tannins. - FM

White: Cool and composed with flavors of kiwi and pink grapefruit. There is a mineral, herb-scented element that adds interest to the evident alcohol and ripeness. - FM

Red: This robust Graves emphasizes oak flavors for now, along with hard-edged tannin. The potent grip needs five or six years to mellow. - JG

Red: Dark and very concentrated from the beginning with oaky scents of smoke and dark curranty aromas. The fruit is attractive, ripe and dense, the tannins very ripe, expressive of the vintage in their richness. It's balanced if a little too extracted. - FM

White: Very ripe fruit gives the wine a slightly loose, blowsy structure. Though the alcohol, fruit and oak are all substantial, the acidity keeps everything lifted. - FM

Another sleeper of the vintage, this seems to be waking up with style. The pure flavor of cabernet rounds the palate. The tannins are supple and equally rounded. It starts and finishes with freshness. - FM

Some say that Kirwan has lost its legendary personality since being taken on by Michel Rolland. However, its rich, sexy cabernet fruit is better than the austere, green-scented fruit of yore. This year the wine is soft, fresh and polished with very ripe fruit and good concentration on the palate. - FM

The purple-violet color implies the depth of ripe fruit in the middle of the wine. The velvet nap of the texture makes this hedonistic Bordeaux, satisfyingly rich, the dark blue fruit contrasting a healthy freshness with an edge of raisining. Given the mineral character in the finish, this should grow complex with a decade of age. - JG

The exceptional color concentration and the immediately seductive aroma set high expectations. This wine is easy to love for its red fruit and wild blueberry scents of merlot (about half of the blend). White pepper spice comes up in the finish, where the warmth of the wine shows. More commanding at the beginning than in the end, this should offer tremendous pleasure for the first ten years of its life. - JG

Rich with great density of flavor, this tastes lively and fresh, lifted for all its concentration. The fruit is pure and simple, plummy and bright. Aromas of violets give it a sophisticated edge. - JG

Dark, sophisticated black currant scents give this flash up front, then it feels a little chunky and inexpressive in the finish. Not showing at its best, but seems to offer good quality and richness. - JG

This wine rarely shows well during the spring en primeur tastings so I am prepared to give it the benefit of the doubt. There is great intensity of color. The cabernet flavors are forthright, with a slight bitter, tarry aroma and prickly, bright tannins. But then there is nothing more and the wine fades into a woody tannic echo that makes it hard to assess its prospects. - FM

One sample of du Tertre was sitting in its oak; another showed more clarity, with dark, supple tannins and a luscious texture. Neither offered a direct link to the fruit; the wine may need time for the oak tannins to recede. - JG

A sleeper in recent vintages this is a rising star under the inspired management of the young Alexander Van Beek. This offers fresh blackberry fruit with some sweetness and mintiness in a pleasing, small-scale structure. It should take on weight as it ages. - FM

Restrained from start to finish, this wine feels tight and austere, with floral scents of violets and firm tannins. Even so, it's the juicy impression of the fruit flavor that lasts. - JG

A perennial favorite that has not been performing well recently and disappointingly did not make the grade up to Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. However this wine should find fans for its spicy, fruit drenched nose and its fresh attack. It is just on the finish that one is a little struck by the dry tannins and bitter notes which lead to a light finale. - FM

A small portion of petit verdot (about 7 percent) adds to the spiciness of this blend with cabernet sauvignon (66 percent) and merlot. It's cool and gentle, a bit light in the end, with sandy-textured Margaux tannins. - JG

This is not a wine that usually shines en primeur, however this year it's a sleeper-a lovely, silky wine in the Margaux style, with pretty freshness and a touch of sweetness. Its deceptively tannic backbone promises longevity. - FM

Though fragrant with scents of violets and wild herbs, this wine's youthful structure restricts what appears to be a beautiful richness that should develop with time. There's purity to the fruit underneath. For now, it's tight and subtle, though it may prove grand. - JG

What a difference a generation makes! Now that this estate is in the hands of Zuber fils working with consultant is Michel Rolland, the wine has become markedly richer and cleaner. There is lots of density and fruit concentration and the wine is stuffed with ripe, plump tannins. - FM

Black at the core with a vibrant violet edge, this wine's elegance builds out of a fragrant raspberry scent. That fresh fruit carries straight through the wine, sophisticated and firm. Alcohol and acidity seem bound together in a spiciness that adds to the generous feel. Well knit. - JG

I hope that it wasn't just this barrel sample that showed so well in our blind tastings since this is a much-welcomed return to form for one of the most popular Cru Bourgeois. Fresh and quite modern in style, this is soft with peppery tannins and minty, ripe fruit. It finishes fresh as well-in all, a very attractive wine. - FM

Plump with flavors of woodland fruit and cassis, this has gentleness, possibly from the relatively high proportion of merlot (39 percent). The tannins are light and crisp, if a touch green; that greenness should meld into the wine with age. - JG

Round and supple, this emphasizes finesse rather than depth. The flavors haven't fully revealed themselves yet, but the wine feels balanced and complete. This should develop well over the next five years. - JG

In spite of its unprepossessing location at the foot of the Margaux appellation, Siran was recently elevated to Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel status. First Michel Rolland and then Denis Dubourdieu have worked to polish the wine. The 2005 has good depth of color with a bright inky hue. The aroma is clean and lifted with compact, tight berry scents and lots of cassis-like cabernet expression. By the finish, the wine becomes rather tough and chewy and the alcohol and the tannins take over. - FM

Paul Pontallier harvested cabernet sauvignon at Margaux that had reached historic levels of potential alcohol in 2005, from 12.7 to 13.2 percent; the merlot reached more extreme levels, between 13.7 to 15.5 percent. "Those merlots were spectacular," he says. "We thought we would put them in the first wine, but when we tried, it didn't work. When the cabernet is great, the merlot doesn't work with it." So the grand vin is 85 percent cabernet sauvignon, 8 percent merlot, 6 percent petite verdot and one percent cabernet franc. The other extreme numbers in 2005 were measures of the density, the tannic index that reached 78; in 2003, the index had been 73; in 2000, 70; in 1982, 62 or 63. So, in fact, the wine is nearly impenetrable. It's black, intensely concentrated, with the feel of velvet and a beautiful fragrance that begins to evolve in the glass. Even the small amount of merlot seems to lift that wild berry character of the vintage out of the blackness. The wine is great, but difficult to read. It will probably start to show itself in 20 years, and should live long thereafter. - JG

It may take years to understand the power and density behind the 2005 Margaux, which appears deceptively easy on the surface. There is an ethereal quality here in spite of the density with almost floral and boysenberry notes in the aroma. Then the wine closes in on itself hiding layers of pure ripe fruit behind the tannins. Very rich and intense. Winemaker Paul Pontallier believes the 2005 "is at the heart of Margaux's excellence." Drink 2015 to 2030. - FM

Thomas Duroux says of his 2005, "The alcohol is 14 degrees; this is the first time we've harvested at that level. All the numbers are really high, but the tannins are so sweet; it's not about numbers, it's about balance." The tannins are sweet in the sample I tasted, with beautiful aromatics that arise from those tannins as well as from the fresh black fruit. The fruit flavors seem impenetrable for now; the only thing detracting from the gracious balance is the peppery aspect in the finish, heat from a combination of alcohol and tannin. Rather than building a blockbuster, Duroux aimed to preserve "the velvet style of Palmer." What he achieved will take many years to fully perceive. - JG

Very dark concentrated color contrasts the brightness in the concentrated, briary fruit character. The texture is viscous, almost treacly, the finish warm and rich with great depth and considerable alcohol. Fresh acidity, apparent in the end, bodes well for long aging. A Classic Palmer offering great drinking between 2018 and 2035. - FM

I am not sure what is going on with the Giscours 2005. Recent vintages have shown so much promise and classic Margaux style that this year's rather extracted, chunky cabernet fruit flavors seem awkward and overdone. Tasted twice, once blind. I hope that this is just a teething problem. - FM

Certainly the location on the Margaux plateau just opposite Dufort Vivens should be a good pedigree for this wine; the fact that it is made by Jean-Luc Thunevin of Valandraud has helped its stature as well. Sweet oak and plummy, ripe cabernet fruit fill the aroma. The mouth feel is concentrated and intensely tannic, finishing spicy and quite hot with lots of extraction. - FM

I was not the only taster this year to be surprised by the quality of this perennial underachiever. There is lots of richness here with bitter chocolate flavors as well as ripe plums. Then the wine becomes chunky and tannic and the promise dulls in the finish. - FM

Completely seductive, this seems to be an oak bomb, then a fruit bomb-a heady, voluptuous stream of black fruit. A keeper? Perhaps not. But it's silken and easy to love. - JG

Great to see this lovely estate performing so well in 2005: The wine is scented with minty cabernet flavors and a pretty vein of acidity running through it. It's pure cabernet at its freshest and most expressive. - FM

When introducing his 2005, Bruno Borie commented on the richness of the merlot; he noted that compared to 2003, there is 50 percent more merlot in the final blend at Ducru (33 percent merlot, the balance in cabernet sauvignon). The wine is rich, sweet and soft, with a lovely gentleness and just a touch of grip. Oak takes over the aromas of the finish, where the wine feels a little hollow for now. Stylish, and maybe more substantive with time. - JG

It's hard to know how to categorize Ducru for now since it tastes angular and disjointed. There is lovely cabernet fruit and a silky texture, lush acidity and a delicious sweetness in the middle. Then the wine becomes harsh and oaky with rather difficult dry tannins. At the moment, it tastes more like a Napa Valley cabernet than a classic St-Julien and time will tell which way it will evolve. - FM

Fragrant fruit and smooth tannins give this an integrated, clean profile. Smart and pleasing claret. - JG

There is great consistency in St-Julien this year and Lagrange, one of the most reliable estates, has put in an impressive performance once again. Is it the liberal dose of ripe petit verdot or the chocolate-scented tannins that give this wine a spicy peppery backbone? A rich, oaky wine with modern appeal. - FM

This wine has a dark, inky color with bright hues, cassis fruit and lively spiciness to add flavor interest. There is a balance of acidity and ripeness that makes this one of the most successful and popular second wines in Bordeaux. - FM

This shows a sophisticated melding of essential cabernet sauvignon flavors with the fruitiness of the earth, a terroir flavor that's resonant, dark and cool. The longer it lasts, the more remarkable its finesse and harmony. - JG

I tasted this wine blind and was impressed by its purity of fruit and fresh acidity. Beychevelle has lagged behind its neighbors in recent years and it's heartening to see a wine this year that is worthy of this noble estate. Elegant and fine with long, tightly grained tannins and classic St-Julien fruit flavors and smokiness. - FM

Elegance is Langoa's long suite, and the vineyard delivers in 2005. The color is impenetrable with a fuschia edge. In flavor, oak appears first, then gracious fruit shows its depths. A powerful wine on a light frame; this is extremely elegant cabernet. - JG

Gorgeous aroma of ripe cassis and fresh plums. This opens to sweet, juicy fruit character well integrated with new oak and almost fruity tannins. There is a vein of acidity running through the wine that lifts up the ripe fruit and makes it very elegant. - FM

Incipient complexity shows in a full hit of floral aromatics, as dark and fragrant as violets. There's tension between the fresh fruit and the earthiness of the tannin, building energy into the wine. - JG

It is a bit of a mystery why Langoa often tastes better young than its older sister, but it is often the case as this year shows (similar in fact to the way that La Mission is often showier than Haut Brion at this early stage.) In spite of being more backward, this shows superb cabernet fruit interlaced with the oak which perhaps is a little too in evidence at the moment. A sexy wine with great appeal, it will only gain in stature as the oak subsides to reveal the earthy, cedary notes Barton's wines typically give. I'd wait at least 10 to 15 years before touching it. - FM

A heavenly balance of fresh, ripe cherries melting into the chocolate richness of tannin-the tannin substantial but completely integrated into the wine. A grand Clos du Marquis, this has both grace and length. A keeper, this should develop well over the next ten to fifteen years. - JG

Although this is only the second wine of Léoville Las Cases, I would still put it into the classic category since it continues to box well above its weight and outperform many Médoc classified growths. The scents of fresh, forward fruit have an herbaceous, briary quality, which is quite typical of the estate. It's lush and fruity with a core of sweet oak and fresh tannins. Delicious. Drink 2012-2020. - FM

The promontory of riverstones that forms the adjacent vineyards of Latour and Léoville's Grand Clos was a sweet spot in 2005. Like the Latour, this wine tastes grand, then grander, continuing for minutes, resonant with the taste of stones under the freshness of the fruit. The wine's tremendous intensity shows in the depth of color, vibrant at the edge. And it shows in the youthful floral scent of the fruit, its dark tone brightened by an aroma like cherry blossoms. The alcohol is visible in the way the wine coats the glass, but it's not at all apparent in the flavor; there is no heat, only power. An exceptional vintage of Léoville-Las-Cases, built for the ages. - JG

Classic cabernet fruit, perhaps more Pauillac than St-Julien (this estate straddles the two famous appellations). The wine's rich fruit is finely integrated with ripe tannin, giving the characteristic lushness that makes Las Cases deceptively easy to taste. You just know that the fresh acidity is going to be present in this wine for the long haul. Compelling and beautiful, this will be ready to be enjoyed in 15 years or more. - FM

With its juicy currant flavors, this vintage of Poyferré feels pushed toward super-ripeness, a little fat and unctuous, a little grand. - JG

Dark, intense and shiny in appearance with polish and class. There are attractive scents of chocolate wrapped plums and spice. A little chunky at the moment with some heat from the alcohol but it has wonderful cabernet echoes in the finish, rich, long and fulfilling. - FM

Clean and fresh, with firm tannins that turn a little bitter in the end, this feels stylish and chic. - JG

Firm, brisk black currant flavors fill this dark, savory wine. It contrasts brighter, fresher tones with umami scents of black mushroom and the char of oak. The alcohol level (13.4) reflects a substantial proportion of merlot in the blend. - JG

It was a pleasant surprise to see this wine perform so well this year. This might have been one of the sleepers of the vintage if it hadn't gotten people buzzing during en primeur week. There is sweet, pure fruit here with composed, fresh tannins and a lovely balance. - FM

Sleek and fine, this already shows good depth of flavor and integration of its oak. It's smoky and dark in tone, with a little heat in the finish that adds to the sense of grip. - JG

Philippe Dalhuin is now in charge of the wine at Mouton, having arrived in 2003 when he helped make the wine with Patrick Léon. He described a smokiness in the wine that is not from wood. "You find it during the fermentation," he said. "It is the signature of Mouton." Without that intimate knowledge, I have formed a different impression of the signature of Mouton: a pure black currant ripeness that I have found in great vintages like 1945 and 1982. This 2005 has some of that fine black currant flavor, now surrounded by puppy fat-the chocolatey richness of new oak. This is sleek and stylish, its distinction hidden a bit behind all the oak. - JG

This is dark, inky and very rich; you can feel the ripeness of the cabernet in the glycerol of the wine. The deep flavors range from chocolate to roasted coffee, to dense plums. It is only as you approach the finish that you become aware of black currant freshness peaking out behind the tannins. A successful Mouton-more exuberance than class. - FM

Baron seems soft, fat and luscious in 2005, with tremendous sex appeal. The flash of oak carries it, and the wine isn't showing much vineyard character at the moment; it may when it absorbs some of the oak. - JG

Dark and very polished with a black olive aroma. Lots of spice with good freshness and layers of fruit, tannin, herbs and oak. Sexy with long peppery tannins and a fresh, fruity finish. For mid- to long-term drinking. - FM

Winemaker Claire Lurton cut her teeth on Chasse Spleen before turning her attentions to this small, often overlooked Pauillac estate. She has made a wine that is warm, lively and friendly with concentrated rosehip flavors and exotic, oriental spiciness on the finish. A very attractive wine. - FM

Freshness builds out of the wild cherry flavors of cabernet sauvignon (48.5 percent of the blend) and blueberry scents of merlot (45.5 percent; the balance is 4.5 percent cabernet franc and 1.5 percent petit verdot). There's also plenty of youthful floral character to counter the tension of the tannin. Firm and beautifully formed. - JG

One of the best young vintages of Comtesse I've tasted in years, this has the elegance the vineyard can offer with none of the greenness sometimes apparent in its young wines. The tannins are velvet soft, merlot adding its tender sweetness to the blend. Refinement shows in the balance of the plummy fruit with the gentle grip of the tannins. - JG

Classic Pichon with a super ripe nose and warm cabernet flavors. This is elegant, its silky tannins carrying an attractive freshness and vibrancy through the wine. The ripe fruit character is tempered by the excellent quality of those tannins, which will make the wine long lived. - FM

At Lafite, Charles Chevalier said there was nothing rushed about the 2005 vintage, that everything happened very calmly. In typical Lafite fashion, there is nothing overt about the wine. Instead, it's impenetrable. Even the color looks powerful. It feels elegant in the mouth, with Lafite's youthful austerity and lithe power. The freshness of the vintage shows in the cool feel of the fruit and understated power of the tannins-layers that make the density and depth of the wine apparent in the feel, but not in any other perceptible way. The pure black currant flavor of cabernet sauvignon grown in Pauillac makes up the core of the wine (it's 88.8 percent cabernet sauvignon, 10.7 percent merlot and 0.5 percent petit verdot, coming in at 12.9 percent alcohol). Perfect ripeness. Essential Lafite. - JG

One of the joys of tasting this vintage en primeur was to see how beautifully the top estates expressed the personality of their vineyards even at this early stage. If anyone wants to know what great Lafite tastes like, here it is. Charles Chevalier has reason to be proud of the 2005, which, like the winemaker, is discrete and charming with hidden depths. This is perhaps the most balanced of all the young wines we tasted. It offers minerality and characteristic, finely tuned cedar and cassis elements. And then something magical happens; the wine gathers density and vibrancy as it hits the back of the mouth, leaving a beguiling lushness and depth. This is a classic that shouldn't be touched too early; it will offer great drinking for at least 30 years. - FM

It's rare to find a wine that leaves a flavor impression for more than five minutes, and even more unusual when that impression is purely evocative of the terroir. This is the best Latour made under Frédéric Engerer's regime, and it will become one of the classic vintages of this legendary property. Engerer's conviction about the vintage began when he tasted the grapes ripening in the vineyard. "We ate the fruit," he says. "We did not spit it out. It had so much natural sugar and flavor intensity that it was fun to eat. Sometimes this happens in the merlot, but never in the cabernet." The flavor intensity of Latour's cabernet made it through the harvest and into the barrel, filling the taste of the wine with freshness. The underlying power the vines themselves harvest from this hill of deep gravel is captured in the press wine, which Engerer and his team continued to feed into the grand vin as it developed over the course of the winter. The final blend absorbed 7 percent press wine (the 2000, in comparison, was 3 percent). Pushed too far, the wine would have felt heavy with extract; but the wine was pushed just far enough, and it captures a seemingly perfect balance of power and finesse. At this early stage, it tastes like a wine that can live for a century. - JG

The finest Latour produced in the new generation and one of the most compelling wines of the 2005 vintage. Great expression of pure cabernet fruit with lushness and an intensity that vibrates in the mouth. Could there be a better home for cabernet than on the gravel slopes of Latour? The power and elegance in this wine will be remembered for a generation; if any winemaker wants a lesson in handling high tannic content, just take a look at the fine weave and freshness here. An extraordinary wine, this will offer great drinking pleasure in 15 years for at least 20-30 years onwards. One poignant moment during our tastings was when Michael Broadbent MW, the venerable wine critic realized that he would no longer be on this earth when this wine reached its peak. We promised we would send him our tasting notes in heaven! - FM

The floral aspects of fresh, young cabernet sauvignon mark the aroma of this wine, then the stony tannins of Latour build its power. Those tannins are rock hard; they rein in the flavor of the wine, which still manages to feel generous and to balance and combine with the strength of the tannins into tremendous length. - JG

One of my favorite second wines. If you cannot afford the first growth, you might like to catch some of its genius here. It is dark and a little massive in the aroma, with lots of chunky, ripe cabernet fruit (76 percent of the blend). Potential shows in the attractive, juicy finish. - FM

Daniel Llose used 80 percent new oak in this vintage, up from the 70 percent he normally employs. He had purchased the same amount as always, but the yields were short, so by using the same amount, the percentage increased. The tannins here are at extremely high levels (a tannic index of 82). For now, there's a lot of oak showing in the wine, and tremendous black currant fruit underneath it. The wine tastes black and luscious, with mineral tannins coming up to last in the finish. Clean, tight and broad. - JG

You would expect Lynch Bages, one of the kings of cabernet, to turn out a classic in 2005 and it did. The wine has ripe cassis and dark, tobacco-scented fruit, with elegance in spite of its power and concentration. It will be super to drink in 10 years or so, and continue on for at least 20 years. - FM

Dark and savory, this tense young wine is more about power than freshness. The ripe fruit tastes like currants in a Christmas pudding, then it finishes smoky and grand. - JG

Often an underperformer in the past, Batailley is back with a solid and important wine this year. Consultant Denis Dubourdieu seems to have cleaned the wine up considerably so that it reverberates with fresh, pure cabernet fruit and fresh tannins. The oak, more evident than in the past, gives a touch of austerity to the wine. Wait at least a decade before drinking this. - FM

A tough Pauillac, this hides behind its vibrant color and the scents of black rose. It's tannic and severe, with an intensity of extract that turns the aromas toward charcoal. Serious wine, needing years to grow approachable. - JG

Considering its proximity to Mouton-Rothschild, it is not surprising that Pontet-Canet exhibits a similar fruit character this year with a delicious, juicy cassis element. There are lashings of new oak and a lift that comes from the acidity. The spicy, warm, modern style will gain many fans. - FM

Since when could a wine from Montrose be described as "rich and easy drinking"? This vintage of La Dame has a voluptuous texture, firm acidity lifting both the pure black raspberry flavor and the stony tannin. It tastes juicy and impressively fresh. - JG

A clean, clear, fresh currant scent modulates through this wine, the essential flavor of cabernet sauvignon woven into hard St-Estèphe tannins. The fruit character persists for minutes after each taste, a beautifully pure expression of this great terroir. As Madame de Gasqueton says of her wine in this vintage, "Le cabernet, c'est magnifique." - JG

There is a spiciness here that reminds me of lapsong suchong tea. Floral and perfumed, this wine announces its elegance right from the start. Madame de Gasqueton believes that it was the cool nights that kept the acidity high here. The result is a lovely, balanced wine, perhaps the most feminine of all the great St-Estèphes with a lingering scent of fruit and minerals in the finish. As Calon always seems to shut down for several years after bottling, I would not attempt to drink this for at least 10 to 15 years. - FM

Black with the toughness of some northern Médocs of the vintage, this is big and potently ripe, but not jammy. There's plenty of grip to keep it structured, in line for long aging. - JG

Another sleeper, this pretty property lies next door to its more famous neighbor, Cos d'Estournel. This year, its wine has a juicy black currant fruit character and a core of mineral, dark earthiness that grounds it in St-Estèphe-as do the spicy tannins that mark the finish. Not a wine to hold for too long. - FM

The Spartan elegance of St-Estèphe comes through in this blend of cabernet sauvignon (55 percent) with merlot (43 percent; the rest is petit verdot). It's peppery and tight, with dark, savory flavors of tropical chocolate and black mushrooms. - JG

Lively and bold, Ormes de Pez is a sophisticated St-Estèphe in 2005. The stoniness of the ground comes through in the tannins. It's relatively light, but persistent; a lovely claret. - JG

This cru bourgeois exceptionnel should be a good buy for those who want to get in on the 2005 action without paying cru classé prices. There is an openness and a warmth to the nose that is very attractive with chocolate-scented spice and plums. This is a medium scale wine, not grand but pretty and composed with good balance of fruit, tannin and oak. - FM

Fresh and firm, with a coolness to the fruit, this black wine from St-Estèphe will need a few years to show its depths. The blend is 50/50 cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with 5 percent each of cabernet franc and petit verdot. - JG

Cos clocks in at 13.95 percent alcohol in 2005, a record to balance the record tannin extract. By chance, we tasted two different samples with Jean-Guillaume Prats, who assured us that the only variable was temperature. The cooler sample was dark and savory, intensely mineral, a cold, marble statue carved out of cabernet. The second, less chilly, was more generous in its currant fruit aspect. Though the wine is hard to access, it feels complete and balanced for all its potent extract. The blend includes 78 percent cabernet sauvignon, 19 percent merlot and 3 percent cabernet franc; it also includes 5 percent press wine. Built to last. - JG

Stylistically this wine is similar to the great 2003 with its superripe fruit, generous cabernet flavors and its rich, almost mouth-coating tannins. It explodes mid-palate with full-throttle tannins. A beautifully made, rich, generous Cos, this should not be drunk for 10 years but should offer a long drinkability span thereafter. - FM

Philippe Lagarrigue assured our group that Montrose was easier to taste now (the first week of April) than two weeks before, yet it was still hard as stone. With a tannic index in February of 82, it is one of the most concentrated wines of the vintage. Though the tannins hide the rest of the wine, it doesn't feel overextracted. The flavors are opaque, but it feels balanced and sure, similar to the wines of Lafite and Cos. Lagarrigue believes a dry year like 2005 favors these vineyards of the northern Médoc, and time may well prove him right. - JG

Given the long growing season at Montrose, you would expect this wine to be one of the stars of the vintage and the 2005 does not disappoint. There is a grapiness here coupled with fresh minty herbs and a fabulous tannic structure. The tannins are so well integrated you forget their intensity and the finish is very long and spicy. The last vintage made under the historic Charmolue regime, as Montrose has recently been sold to Martin Bouygues. - FM

The dry 2005 season left an impression similar to a Douro touriga nacional. This is intense, spicy, floral and black, almost Porty. - JG

It is my imagination or are there several Bordeaux that are beginning to taste distinctly Port-like in style? This has a very sweet, tarry aroma with warm, compact bramble flavors. - FM

Deep, dark plum and violet scents lift this savory wine. There's a touch of volatility; the wine is not completely integrated. But it is impressively dense and charry. - JG

Pleasingly mineral in its evocation of Margaux's sandy gravel terroir, this offers aromas of violets as well as a green peppercorn edge. The tannins are soft, feeling a little dense in the end. - JG

Jean-Guillaume Prats (of Cos d'Estournel) established this new project using selected old-vine cabernet parcels in the northern Médoc, near the town of Goulée. He blends the wine for an international audience, with gentle richness and clean fruit. It offers fine quality and can readily compete with New World cabernets, even those which are often considerably more expensive. Easy to enjoy. - JG

Bright all the way through, in color, aromas and youthful fruit, this Haut-Médoc has a simplicity in its tannin, with a super-fine grit. Pleasing balance, for ready enjoyment. - JG

Amplitude builds out from the aroma, plump and plummy along with an immediate hit of rich oak. That oak seems to dress it up, a chic, black-tie wine. But it's not overdressed, its mineral structure readily apparent under the oak. - JG

Here's proof of a great year in Bordeaux: The outlying communes of the Médoc performed with consistency and ripe fruit. This is a lovely, fruity wine with sweetness and lashings of oak that need to integrate if the wine is to become balanced. Still, there is a very attractive mouth-feel with good depth. This should evolve well over the mid term. - FM

A sophisticated wine from the northern Médoc, this gives a first impression of firm, cabernet sauvignon tannin. With a little air, the extract relents and yields a juiciness in the end, fresh and lovely. To enjoy six to ten years from the vintage. - JG

From the Delon stable of Léoville Las Cases, this wine is powerful in the nose with ripe, mineral fruit character. It is a tad chunky and there are virile tannins in evidence but there's also perfume and sweetness from the ripe merlot that throws the structure into relief. - FM

This is delicious, plump, full of chocolate richness, a generous, easy wine for early enjoyment. - JG

This may be the best young wine yet from the new team at La Tour Carnet. Its deep fragrance of violets and herbs has a lovely complexity. There's tension and freshness in the wine up front, then the lasting impression is supple and rich. - JG

Rescued from the doldrums by Bernard Magrez of Château Pape Clement, this wine has undergone a transformation. This is the modern face of Bordeaux with smoky, fragrant cabernet fruit, lashings of new oak giving a scent of bacon fat. The wine is warm, rich and velvety if a little blowsy on the palate. A good performance from one of the prettiest castles in the Médoc. - FM

Freshness shows in the vibrant color and violet florals surrounding the fruit. It's both tart and ripe, stylish and sensibly representative of its terroir. - JG

The fruit is repressed under woodsmoke and powerful, earthy tannins. Slowly, its aromatics develop; the fruit should appear more prominently over the next decade. - JG

Tough love from the Haut-Médoc-this is black and austere in tone, and the tannin concentration is intense. It's like dry molasses or a cake of earth, and yet it feels energized, lasting. This should be at its best around ten years from the vintage. - JG

After a day of tasting more than 100 wines, this was the last wine of the evening. It had an immediate effect on my tired palate. The fresh acidity immediately brightened my mood. It tastes at first like biting into fresh pineapple, then flavors of white peaches, mango and spice come into focus. A gorgeous wine, expressive, long and incredibly rich. I'd call this wine decadent rather than extravagant-but that may depend on the price (which has just been announced for a cool 118 euros per half bottle). - FM

A lovely wine made with elegance and style. Great apricot scents rise up out of the glass. In the mouth the wine is incredibly dense yet still fresh with lingering sweetness interspersed with an attractive minerality. - FM

It is sometimes easy to forget the great sweet wines of Bordeaux in all the cacophony for the reds. But overlook the 2005s Sauternes and Barsacs at your peril. These are classic and will age incredibly well. Lafaurie Peyraquey is a fruit bomb of apricots and roasted pineapple with very fresh acidity running through it. Hedonistic. - FM

Made by Charles Chevalier of Lafite, Rieussec displays the same class and composure as that great Pauillac. Scents of honeysuckle, honey and smoky hazelnuts rise out of the glass. After the initial onslaught of sweetness, the finish appears impressively dry thanks to the great acidity running through the wine. Lovely. - FM

I have never had the chance to taste Yquem at such an early stage and the experience was a revelation. There is a beauty in the making here with incredibly concentrated smoky, roasted apricot and muesli flavors. Most impressive is the taut structure, like a tightly tuned wire. Incredibly tight and long, this is among the purest wines I have ever tasted. - FM