August 2004

"Malagouzia is the next riesling," said Yiannis Voyatzis as we sat surrounded by mezedes, an array of different Greek dishes meant to be shared. Voyatzis, enologist at Boutari for nearly twenty years, laughed at the outrageousness of the statement - after all, there are only a small handful of wineries in Greece that make wines from that ancient Greek grape. But then we began to taste. Satin-textured with honey-soft fruit flavors and gentle floral notes, the malagouzia wrapped itself around every plate expertly. It picked up the sea-filled sweetness of the fat grilled shrimp; it tempered the spice in the peppery feta spread. It tangled with the tangy smoky sauce bathing the smooth, chewy snails, and its floral notes mingled with the saffron-sauced monkfish. This brought two things to mind: One, that there was far more to Greek food than spanakopita, staple of Greek diners across the States, and two, that Voyatzis might have a point. There are wines coming out of Greece right now that could take a place in the list of vinous greats: whites as versatile as riesling, as mineral-laden as Côte d'Or chardonnay and as fascinating as Loire-grown chenin, and reds that could compete with merlot for pure plummy hedonism, or offer pinot-like charms of spice and acidity. And now that these fine wines are pushing Retsina aside, it's time we update what we know about Greek food. It's not all greasy and cold; in fact, done right, it's one of the most varied cuisines in the world. If you're heading to the Olympics this month, here's some tips on how to eat deliciously; if you're watching from home, here's some tips for bringing Greece to you with a fork and a glass.

a meal of mezedes
  The first thing to know about Greek food is that mezedes is where it's at. Souvlaki is terrific for eating on the run, and a triangle of spanakopita picked up from the bakery makes a nice light lunch. But to get the best taste of Greek cuisine, head for the taverna or mezedopolion and settle in. Though the dishes may be simply prepared and many served room temperature, this isn't fast food.
  Mezedes, small plates of food like the ones that covered every inch of our table, fuel Greece. Part nourishment, part entertainment, part social lubricant, mezedes appear all over the Mediterranean, served at any time of the day. Like tapas, the little plates of food that begin an evening in Spain, mezedes are always served with alcohol - be it anise-scented ouzo, pine-scented Retsina or wine - but unlike tapas, they are never eaten standing up. The main goal of mezedes is keeping diners at the table as long as possible, talking, discussing, arguing amicably and solving all the problems of the world.
  That's a tall order for a meal, and during my meal with Yiannis Voyatzis, as I listened to him banter with the waiter, it became clear that there's an art to it. They frowned on repetition; ordering eggplant salad disqualified any consideration of stuffed, baked eggplant. Two dips were enough; to counter their smoothness, they ordered some thin-sliced zucchini, battered and deep-fried until crisp. Some plates were cold, others warm; some crunchy, some smooth. The shapes and colors seemed almost more appropriate for a Dutch still life than a meal.
  Such an array of tastes, textures and temperatures could make the most seasoned sommelier lose her mind, which is one reason Retsina is a staple in tavernas. The resinated wine's vivid pine flavor stands up to pungent garlic, bitter greens, tart vinegar and the bass notes of roast meat.
  Retsina, however, wasn't going to do anything positive for our saffron-sauced monkfish. Hence the malagouzia. Then, for good measure, we also opened a floral moscofilero from Mantinia in the Peloponnese, a smooth, almond-toned savatiano from Attica and a lean, mineral-filled assyrtiko from the island of Santorini. Like most Greek whites, all were light, fresh, and more mineral than fruity, so they matched up with a wide array of flavors.
  Reds work with mezedes, too, as we proved with a satiny Nemea. Many Greek reds, especially those made from xinomavro, a grape that grows in Naoussa and other parts of the north, have plenty of tannin, which can go metallic against fish or greens. Nemea's fruity agiorgitikos are more agile. They're juicy and soft enough to go easy on vegetable dishes and hearty enough to stand up to spicy, rich foods like loukanika sausage.
  The array of foods and wines on our table made for addictive eating; rather than settle on any one dish, we picked at this one, tried that one, tasted those two together. Each dish inspired comments, questions and descriptions of other great versions. The plates kept coming, and though the timing seemed random, even this had its strategy: Just as our appetites began to flag, another dish would come out that we just had to taste. And all along the wines mingled with each dish, changing tastes, cleansing the palate, urging the appetite on for more. No wonder dinner lasted three hours.

mezedes at home
  If you can't get to Greece, you can easily create a mezedes experience at home. In fact, the mezedes tradition grew out of the home; in Greece, it's common courtesy to offer visitors a few intriguing bites to eat to encourage them to stay a while. The dishes don't need to be complex or numerous; offerings may be as simple as an apple sliced into thin wedges or a bowl of olives. The thought counts the most; the point is to make guests feel welcome.
  But if you do want to try a few traditional Greek dishes, all the better. The very act of cooking is an act of hospitality; it's taking time out to please your guests. Just keep an eye towards balance so that the spread impresses without overwhelming. For instance, of the three recipes included here, the yellow fava dip is light and creamy; the charred octopus chewy; the bright greens slightly bitter. Add some black olives, a chunk of salty feta and some lemon wedges to squeeze over the food, and you'll have an impressive array of color, texture and flavor. Pour a mineral-laden, sun-filled Santorini or fragrant moscofilero from Mantinia, and you might even time-travel to Greece for an evening.
  Keep in mind that these recipes are templates, yours to fill in as you like. Greeks take great pride in adding their own touch to a recipe; every dish is an offering not just of nourishment but an expression of oneself. Making more complex mezedes, like stuffed grape leaves or small filo packages, can be an opportunity to socialize in itself. Assemble a small army of friends, stuff, roll and fold as you chat, and the problems of the world will soon disappear.

1 pound yellow split peas
3 shallots, peeled
1 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 bay leaf
2/3 cup olive oil
juice of one lemon
sea salt and fresh-ground pepper
scallions, white and tender green only, sliced finely

1 medium octopus (about 4 pounds), cleaned (ask the fishmonger)
1 cup dry red wine
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon cumin
1/4 cup olive oil
fresh-ground pepper, if desired

2 pounds assorted bitter greens
   (spinach, dandelion, arugula, mustard, swiss chard, beet, kale or other greens)
4 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil
sea salt and fresh-ground pepper
4 lemons, sliced