Departments
Editor's Note

Happenings

Fined & Filtered:
   Liquid & Nitrogen

Tastings
Year's Best
American Pinot Noir
Austrain Wines
White Burgundy
Loire Wines
Portuguese Reds
Tuscan Reds

New Releases
Extreme Values
American
Imported

April 2012  Features at Wine & Spirits

23rd Annual Restaurant Poll
Remember the excitement of not knowing? The good kind, not the fear. The kind when someone has put their heart and soul into a package for you, sealed it up and now you’re waiting to find out what’s inside. The moment when you’ ve finished a recipe and open the oven door to test it. The turn of a corkscrew in a bottle you’ve heard about but never tasted.
The complete article is available in the print edition of Wine & Spirits.


New and notable NYC restaurants and bars 2012
“If you’re going to have a wine list, you may as well make it a good one,” said the bartender at Empellón one evening. That’s a sentiment we’d like to encourage, whether we’re in a sleek takeoff on a French farmhouse, a high-end Korean dining room, a British-inflected gastro­pub or a Mexican restaurant. And it’s what makes the 15 new restaurants profiled here worth a special trip. These places have wine lists that live up to their exceptional kitchens, and sommeliers who match their chefs in talent and ambition.

The complete article is available in the print edition of Wine & Spirits.


Brightlighters in the deep end
  The Anderson Valley after the Pinot Noir Boom
About 100 miles north of San Francisco along a remote stretch of Highway 128, the town of Boonville rises up out of a twist of untouched beauty to mark the shallow end of the Anderson Valley AVA. It’s a town so sleepy it might as well be in a coma, kept alive on life support since the last century and thus gloriously out of step with the towns that anchor California’s well-trodden regions farther south.

The complete article is available in the print edition of Wine & Spirits.


Blaufränkisch
  The Restoration of Austria’s Noble Red
Blaufränkisch—the “Blue Frank” —no doubt came east from France, and has most likely grown in what was long known as “ German West Hungary” since before medieval times. Its name, at least, points toward the aftermath of Charlemagne, when things that were noble were “Frankish” as opposed to “Hunnish.” (Heunisch the grape—a.k.a. gouais blanc—is a parent of chardonnay, first mentioned in 1330, and ancestor to numerous other well-known varieties.)
The complete article is available in the print edition of Wine & Spirits.


Dessert in the Douro
  David Leite Talks Portuguese Cheeses and Tawny Port
“ When I was at Quinta do Vallado, we were drinking Port with Serra,” David Leite recalled as he cut the top off a wheel of Zimbro, a cheese similar to Queijo Serra da Estrela, the mountain sheeps’ milk round that’s one of northern Portugal’s greatest contributions to gastronomy. Leite himself is another one of Portugal’s great contributions of gastronomy: The publisher of LeitesCulinaria.com, he’s the author of The New Portuguese Table and a repository of culinary knowledge, including how to deal with this oozing, superripe cheese.

The complete article is available in the print edition of Wine & Spirits.


Class of 1972
  Making the List
This year, according to our Restaurant Poll, domestic wines accounted for more than half of the most popular wines in US restaurants, but that didn’t used to be the case. In the late 1960s, Bordeaux ruled the dining room after a round or two of Martinis. With the benefit of hindsight, many observers point to Steven Spurrier’s Paris tasting of 1976 as the event that put California wine on the world stage. But the groundwork for that event was laid in the late ’ 60s and early ’70s. It was 1972, in particular, when Warren Winiarski made his first vintage from Stag’s Leap Vineyard, the wine that took Paris and helped make Napa a household name. That same year, Jerry Lohr planted his first vineyard in Monterey County, Sally and Tom Jordan purchased a 275-acre vineyard site in Alexander Valley, and an uncanny number of perennial Restaurant Poll standout wineries were founded. We asked key figures from the “Class of 1972” to speak about how they effected the sea change that convinced restaurants to carry the upstart wines from California.

The complete article is available in the print edition of Wine & Spirits.


Wine Superheroes
  An interview with Manga authors Shin and Yuko Kibayashi
A renown wine critic dies and leaves his house and wine collection to his son—but only if his son can identify the “12 Apostles,” a dozen wines he’s chosen as a window into his soul. The problem is, his son has never had a sip of wine in his life, and his father has made the same bid to another “son,” a confirmed wine connoisseur.

The complete article is available in the print edition of Wine & Spirits.