Where to eat and drink well in NYC right now
With so many former cooks and sommeliers, the W&S crew isn’t easy to impress when it comes to dining out. But we do have our go-to places where drinks are taken as seriously as the food. Some are long-time favorites; others are brand-new discoveries. All count as must-visits in 2017.
This neighborhood bar, from Brooklyn restaurateur Andrew Tarlow, excels in simple pleasures. John Connolly’s wine list favors the rustic and the versatile, shining a light on unheralded French wines, from Aveyron to Vin de France, most well under $100. Chef Lee Desrosiers’ menu, which changes daily, re-imagines the possibilities of bar food—the offal, off-cuts and tartares are consistently outstanding. Just outside the door lies a daunting view of towering Midtown, and you may decide to never leave Brooklyn.
The best post-theater option for great wine and a quick bite, thanks to Aldo Sohm’s ever-changing, far-ranging by-the-glass selection and the Austrian-accented charcuterie tower.
Among the many food courts that have popped up across the city in the last few years, Urban Space Vanderbilt is our favorite. It’s easy to get to, within sprinting distance of Grand Central Terminal, and it brings together an all-star list of food purveyors, including Brooklyn favorites like Roberta’s Pizza and Red Hook Lobster Pound. The best reason to stop in, however, is Amali Mou, the diminutive version of Amali 20 blocks north. Not only are the gyros the best this side of Athens, with meat from Cascun Farms in upstate NY, but there’s a full wine list, which sommelier Frankie Mace has packed with serious pours from around the world. Grab a glass of sparkling xinomavro or split of Ramnista Naoussa at lunch, or colonize one of the picnic tables with a group of friends and order off the bottle list.
April 2017 Update: Amali Mou ups the upscale food-court game with a drinks list that runs from Aperol Spritz to bottles of Canary Islands malvasia and Portuguese touriga. Order a gyro while you’re at it— the best this side of Athens.
In a 28th Street space that’s minimalist cool, chef Junghyun Park (formerly of Jungsik) is plating up some of New York’s finest Korean fare. He excels at the four-ingredient dish, turning something as simple as leeks in doenjang into a silken, sweet-salty fugue. The plates aren’t large, nor are they bite-sized and precious. Budget $36 for three of them, then search out a bottle on Ellia Park’s wine list—a concise collection of zesty grüner veltliners and mineral-laden Burgundies punctuated by new Loire and Jura favorites.
Like The Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog, which takes its name from the Irish gang that terrorized Lower Manhattan in the mid-1800s, the newest place from Jack McGarry and Sean Muldoon commemorates another piece of NYC history. BlackTail transports you back to Prohibition, when planes adorned with black tailfins—full of thirsty Americans en route to Cuba—flew directly over Pier A Harbor House. The bar, on the second floor of Pier A, offers a hardbound book of drinks, organized by style and glassware: highball, punch, sour, old-fashioned, cocktail. A Cuban classic, the daiquiri will welcome you in the form of a frozen amuse. Munch on a Cubano sandwich stuffed with confit rabbit leg, roasted pork shoulder, rosemary ham, Swiss tomme and dill pickles, or snack on the crispy fried plantain and yucca chips. But don’t miss the Rum & Cola, spiked with Italian amaro and a glug of Champagne.
Amanda Smeltz wasn’t the most obvious choice to take over a wine program in a Midtown Manhattan restaurant. Before she came to Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud, across from Lincoln Center, Smeltz was in the hinterlands of Brooklyn, fueling the raucous, exploratory scene at Roberta’s with Hungarian furmints and skin-contact Georgian wines. But it’s a brilliant move on Daniel Boulud’s part to keep his places as relevant now as they were when they opened. While Smeltz has retained the signature Big Bottle specials and core focus on French wines in both places, she’s brought with her a new generation of winemakers to freshen things up. If you like Allemand Cornas, she might pour you something from Domaine de la Grande Colline, made by his former mentee Hirotake Ooka. And while there’s still plenty of Burgundy, you might want to check out the elegant pinot from Botanica in South Africa, or Swick Le Sous Bois, a no-sulfur-added pinot from the Columbia Gorge. Her picks tend toward the low-intervention, saline and edgy, bringing an energy to the table that seems to make the rich food even easier to digest.
Michelle Biscieglia’s wine list is as carefully considered as chef Dan Barber’s food—unfussy, sustainably farmed and delicious. Bonus points for the helpful organization by style, and the array of NYS wines.
The room is cramped and festive, right down to the tessellations in the tile flooring. Anything a la plancha is still as delicious as it was when the place opened in 2004. And the wine list, while limited to Spain, is seemingly unlimited within Spain. Check out the Rioja selection, with verticals of CVNE, La Rioja Alta and López de Heredia stretching back to the 1940s. The depth of the list in Vega Sicilia, Pingus and Alvaro Palacios wines will appeal to travelers booking a table via the Michelin Guide, while locals can drink well with bottles of Descendientes de J. Palacios 2014 Petalos from Bierzo for $51, or a Josep Foraster Conca de Barberà Rosado sparkling wine for $48.
To cap off this bounty, there’s Charlie Bird, where Robert Bohr, sommelier to the rich and famous, is a partner. The list is comfortable, with a secret list somewhere if you ask (usually in the sommelier’s head). As you’d expect from Bohr, who often wears a pin that says “I Love Sulfur,” the selection leans towards the classics with an occasional accident Skál like Elisabetta Foradori’s Nosiola. ($80). Want a half bottle? Sure. All wines, great and small, are served up in beautiful Zalto glasses.
April 2017 Update: The cool kids come for the hip-hop playlist and a wine selection that allows for drinking well without spending a lot of money. And Masters of the Universe come for the other end of the list: Robert Bohr and his team of young-buck sommeliers have mined their wineworld connections for older bottles of Bandol, Burgundy and Barolo now in their prime. All of them go with the hearty fare on Ryan Hardy’s menu, sourced from farmers and fishermen within reach of Manhattan. —Joshua Greene
The first foray into the New York dining scene for Enrique Olvera, the celebrated chef of Mexico City’s Michelin-starred Pujol, Cosme immediately announces itself as a haven for traditional Mexican flavors. Although the bare concrete floor, sleek lines and soaring ceilings might exude a slightly impersonal air, the rich scents of roasting chiles and garlic fill the space with warmth. Another kind of warmth awaits at the bar, in the form of an encyclopedic range of artisanal mezcal and Tequila, including such gems as the estate-grown Fuenteseca 9-year-old Tequila. Yana Volfson—who also consults for Russ & Daughters Cafe, compiled a wine list on par with the bar offerings. The selections from Spain represent a particular strength; for instance, imagine drinking a crisp yet fleshy godello (such as the 2012 A Coroa 200 Cestos from Valdeorras) alongside a scallop aguachile with poached jicama and fresh wasabi, cucumber and lime, or an earthy 2002 Viña Tondonia Reserva Rioja from López de Heredia to cut through a fatty plate of duck carnitas with salsa verde.
Caleb Ganzer, a W&S Best New Sommelier of 2016, has quickly turned this dark NoLita space into a sommelier hangout, thanks in particular to the extensive Champagne list, where rare bottles regularly turn up at a fraction of the usual price. Wine geeks delight in the Jura selection, while collectors marvel at the Burgundy prices. Drop in on select Monday nights, for his Wine MixTape Series, when he lets other wine-world stars take over the bar with their own playlist.
When Tom Colicchio opened Craft in 2001, he moved one block south from Gramercy Tavern, the quintessential NYC dining room and barroom he’d created with Danny Meyer. Craft was his personal launching pad as a star chef and its concept and design made a splash in pre–9/11 New York, as much for the stark presentations of perfectly braised short ribs and pint-sized copper roasting pans filled with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, as for the wine list, which Matthew MacCartney, a fellow Gramercy Tavern alum, built into an eclectic powerhouse. Today, the room feels comfortably dated, somewhere between modernist simplicity and post-modern tech-boom glitz. The tables are vast squares of NYC real estate, the low murmur in the room allowing for conversation with your friend across the expanse of wood. The quality, range and simplicity of the food translate the avid carnivore’s experience in her favorite steakhouse to the language of the omnivore, or pescatarian, or vegetarian (you could happily dine here on vegetables alone). Patrick Bennett’s wine list is equally catholic and deeply satisfying, especially in Champagne and Burgundy, where you can find extraordinary wines (with a number at remarkable prices). Where else can you start with a pinot noir from Champagne, the Bouzy Rouge from Benoît Lahaye, before choosing from a range of Vosne-Romanée lieu-dits from Louis Michel Liger-Belair? And then itch to go back for the other hidden gems from Austria, Germany, Canada, Jura, Portugal, side pockets of Bordeaux satellites, outskirts in the Rhône and untrammeled California amidst their well-branded cousins. There’s plenty here for the super-rich of the contemporary tech boom, and somehow as many choices for those of us who continue to struggle with the complexities of the real world. We can all use a drink about now. This just happens to be a great place to find it.
Grand on all accounts, from the opulent space, Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali’s evocative food and Jeff Porter’s list of hidden gems and classic bottles, Del Posto is a sweeping survey of all the best Italy has to offer—and adds an exceptionally deep assortment of Champagne.
April 2017 Update: Grand on all accounts, from the opulent space to Lidia Bastianich and Mario Batali’s evocative food and the extensive list of Italy’s hidden gems and classic bottles, Del Posto is a sweeping survey of the best Italy has to offer.
Sherry, it turns out, is now big in the City, big enough to encourage Alex Raij and her husband Eder Montero, to take over EQP’s next-door space and insert a dining room. The restaurant, hidden behind the kitchen, still feels as intimate as someone’s living room, with wacky seventies-era lamps and mismatched chairs. Warm up with a glass of amontillado and EQP’s famous sea urchin sandwich, alongside some crunchy, pimentòn-spiked chickpeas and torreznos (a.k.a. “bag of bacon”). Then settle in for the evening with more substantial dishes. Raij and Montero dig deep into Spanish cuisine for some of its most fascinating dishes (their Brooklyn restaurant, La Vara, specializes in Judeo-Spanish cuisine). Here you can get xató, an orchestral combination of shredded raw salt cod tossed with bitter chicory and rich romesco redolent of the Catalan coast; or a salad of wheat berries, butternut squash and black-eyed peas studded with tender chunks of octopus and dressed in tahini—a takeo on a Menorcan recipe, Raij says. Her wine list, a tight selection built with sommelier Jason Arias, highlights the country’s lesser-explored areas, with white Priorat and red Rías Baixas and other acidic, oceanic delights.
April 2017 Update: Alex Raij and Eder Montero’s uni panino, as tiny as it may be, is one of the great sandwiches of New York. There may be no better accompaniment to a glass of Fino, and there may be no better place to drink Sherry on this side of the Atlantic.
Few wine lists have remained as influential as the one beverage director Bill Fitch pioneered nearly a decade ago at Brooklyn’s Vinegar Hill House; its seamless blend of offbeat naturalism and Old-World classicism helped to define an entire generation of Brooklyn beverage programs. While many of the fringe producers he first championed have since become staples across the borough, one thing hasn’t changed: Fitch’s restless sense of discovery. This eagerness to explore new frontiers is on full display at Faun, the Italian-inspired, gratuity-free, ambitious addition to the Prospect Heights restaurant scene. At approximately 50 bottles, it’s a smaller list for Fitch. Taking inspiration from the restaurant’s namesake—the goat-human hybrid of ancient mythology—the program highlights Europe’s untamed, less-traveled viticultural regions. “As a concept, the faun is part of the Greco-Roman idea of the forested ‘other-world,’ or hinterlands,” he explains. “It’s about a kind of wild spirit, a rusticity,” discovered in the ancient places where wine was born. This translates to a fascinating cross-section of obscure offerings from Greece and Italy—such as the fizzy, skin-fermented Domaine Glinavos Paleokerisio from Ioannina or Lazio producer Andrea Occhipinti’s floral Rosso Arcaico—as well as Eastern Europe (i.e., Richard Stávek’s Vesely, a juicy red Moravian field blend)
Manhattan may have its fair share of natural wine bars, yet The Four Horsemen regularly draws diners across the Williamsburg Bridge, to see what Justin Chearno is pouring. It’s an equal-opportunity scene, where bottles of Georgian rkatsiteli mingle with Dutraive cru Beaujolais and Arnot-Roberts trousseau, not to mention magnums of Laherte Frères Champagne. It’s all natural, low-intervention wines and great music, thanks to LCD Soundsystem frontman James Murphy, a partner in the restaurant
Walk into the atrium of the 1883 Temple Court Building, gaze up at the maze of cast-iron railings topped off by a glass pyramid, and you have arrived: The Beekman Hotel and home to Fowler & Wells, Tom Colicchio’s newest restaurant. It’s dramatic yet charming old-school New York, from the jewel-toned stained-glass panels on the walls, to the plush banquettes lining the room. Beverage Director Jarred Roth has made it affordable to drink well in such sumptuous surroundings. A bottle of Eva Fricke’s single-vineyard Seligmacher Riesling or a glass of Phrenological Kabinett Cider from Good Life Cider Co. are tuned to chef Bryan Hunt’s dishes: Order the sweetbreads, creamy and mild with bacon and nutty Brussels sprouts, or rabbit schnitzel perched atop buttery pistachios, roasted citrus and garlic confit.
Viewed from Google Maps, it might not look like a promising destination, a no-man’s land of small factories and a fair hike from the nearest subway. But press on. When you arrive, you’ll be welcomed by the glow of a wood-burning fire, from which all sorts of goodness emanates. There are the oysters to start, smoky and dangerously juicy, and the carrots transformed into vegetable candy, the charred orange lengths topped with an addictive peanut-based spice mix. Even kohlrabi turns out compelling, roasted and sliced thick, and of course there’s plenty of meat. There’s also the wine list, one of the most uncompromising in New York City. Sommelier Alex Alan, formerly of Casa Mono, wears his wine loves proudly, devoting an outsized portion of the small list to wines from Beaujolais and the Loire, with quite a lot from Georgia, to boot. It seems strange at first, even a ridiculous move, until you start tasting around the menu. All those vegetables, and those sweet, smoky wood fire notes; all the richness crying out for acidity, and all the soft, gentle textures: There aren’t many wines that can simultaneously coddle and kick butt like chenin, gamay and skin-contact Georgian wines can. In fact, it makes perfect sense.
Wilson Tang is the scion of Nom Wah, the long-running Chinatown tea parlor, and Fung Tu is his playground to explore the idea of “Chinese-American.” Chef Jonathan Wu creates brilliant, exciting collisions like ‘nduja spiced with Sichuan peppercorns or steamed buns with sweet potato stuffing. General manager Sophie Maarleveld runs with the idea, stacking the list with bubbles, broad, waxy whites and light, frisky reds— agile wines that can take on umami and spice. And most are under $100
Slip into the bar, bright with daylight and cozy in its cushioned seats, where Gabriel Kreuther’s hearty Alsace food feels right at home. Order a classic tarte flambée with smoked bacon and crème fraîche, or the house-made sausage with tangy sauerkraut. Explore offal via the silky liverwurst, or a bowl of burgundy-hued lentils dotted with melting bits of tripe. These dishes make great fodder for exploring the funky, light-footed gamays from the Côte Roannaise and Alsace rieslings and gewurztraminers sommelier Emilie Perrier has compiled, not to mention her Champagne list. Sure, you can have a business meeting in the dining room. But to steal away in the bar one afternoon with a glass of 2008 Trimbach Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre Gewurztraminer and a sausage is to take a mini holiday
A NYC classic, Gramercy Tavern has seen some major changes this year. First there was the transition to Hospitality Included. Add to that the departure of longtime sommelier Juliette Pope, and it would be misleading to report that the transition has been entirely smooth. But with Michael Anthony in the kitchen and W&S Best New Sommelier of 2016 Justin Timsit getting his bearings on the wine list, the growing pains don’t diminish the glory of the meal itself. A bowl of chawanmushi with black trumpets and hazelnuts, a glass of pinot noir, and Gramercy Tavern defines the culture of New York as vibrantly as ever.
Umbrian-born Roberto Paris started at Il Buco in 1997, helping Donna Lennard turn her NoHo antiques store-cum-café into a full-fledged restaurant. His wine list became as much a draw as the food, which launched chefs like Jody Williams and Ignacio Mattis to culinary fame. That restaurant is still very much worth a detour, but for everyday dining, head a couple doors down to Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria. To step inside is to be transported to a small bar in Italy, where the neighborhood congregates for coffee at 8am and comes back for a glass of wine at lunch. The list showcases lesser-known Italians by the glass, like passerina del Fruisinate from Lazio or top-notch Müller-Thurgau, while the bottle list draws attention for its back vintages and boldly personal flavor. Collections from Lebanon’s Musar and Rioja’s López de Heredia mingle among the Italians, as does Argentina’s Bodegas Chacra, run by Tuscan vintner Piero Incisa della Rocchetta. Together with house baker Sheena Otto’s bread, it’s reason enough to become a regular.
If you crave a bowl of broth on a winter’s night, there’s no warmer or more welcoming place to go than Hearth. And if that broth is made from seaweed, with shiitake and hijiki, ask Christine Wright for a glass of Manzanilla—the Maruja, from Bodegas Juan Piñero: it’s a brilliant and refreshing umami rush. You can get lost for hours in Wright’s list, which reads like a childhood dream of walking from one room to another in some vast, dimly lit home that might be related to your own, finding something you prized that you had lost before leaving it again to walk on to the next. So stop yourself and order the Sylvain Pataille Aligoté, a white wine in the same rich mood as your dream, and it will comfort you with anything you happen to order off the menu, whether the spatchcocked chicken for two or the whole-grain rigatoni with pork ragù.
This Flatiron newcomer provides succulent pasta and easy bites. Chef Jared Sippel comes from Frasca, the western outpost of Friulian cuisine in the United States. So does Erica O’Neal, who handles the wines, stacking the list with Italian whites, along with wines from contiguous countries (don’t miss the Kozlovic Malvasia from Croatia’s Istrian peninsula). The rumbling amaro cart O’Neal shepherds through the dining room will end the evening with a beautiful flourish. Pro tip: The frico paired with friulano is a must.
Manish Mehrotra’s star is only burning brighter since he opened this upscale restaurant in Midtown last winter, his first venture beyond the New Delhi restaurant that launched him to fame. Here it’s not only the food—innovative and exciting in its nontraditional twists—but also the wine list, compiled by Daniel Beedle, that deserves attention. His list emphasizes aroma and texture above all, key characteristics with Mehrotra’s complex dishes. Riesling leads the way, with three pages showcasing German and Austrian growers as well as examples from Michigan, the Finger Lakes and Slovakia, followed up by an impressive selection of chenin blanc, grüner veltliner and sauvignon blanc, not to mention trousseau gris, Hunter semillon and Corsican vermentino. You might opt for the wine pairing to match the seven-course tasting menu, or choose a bottle like Movia’s 2009 Veliko Bianco to experience how one versatile wine can match a range of intense flavors.
In an airy space where SoHo and the West Village meet, River Café alums Jess Shadbolt and Clare de Boer teamed up with New Yorker Annie Shi to open King in late 2016. Shadbolt and de Boer turn out lusty and dynamic plates from the season’s best produce—dishes like baccalà with grilled polenta, olives and wild oregano, or roasted pumpkin with dandelion, chili sauce and crème fraîche. These demand agile wines, and the two-sided wine list delivers with a savvy selection of Champagne, Beaujolais and Piemontese wines, plenty under $75. There’s also a dozen wines “From the Family Cellar,” where you can drink extremely well for a good price—1996 Léoville Las Cases for $500, 1998 Giacosa Barolo for $300.
The first thing you’ll notice as you enter LaRina Pastificio & Vino is the wall of artisanal vermouth and amaro behind the bar. “Some are so regional I didn’t even know they existed when I was in Italy,” explains Emilia-Romagna native Giulia Pelliccioni, who helms the eclectic, Italo-centric natural wine list at this upscale take on the casual pasta spot. While the encyclopedic range of bitter liqueurs forms the basis for an inventive cocktail program, Pelliccioni’s obsession with the category is best understood by ordering them on the rocks (splash of soda optional): the bright citrusy Montanaro Bianco, for example, or the richer, Sherry-like Silvio Carta Vermouth di Sardegna. Either will sufficiently whet the appetite for a heaping plate of lemon gigli pasta smothered in duck ragù. At which point, you’ll probably start craving a perfumed glass of Cala Cala Rosso from Etna’s Calabretta estate or one of Denis Montanar’s textured Friulian whites. Just don’t skip a splash of amaro with your post-dessert espresso.
At La Pizza Fresca, you’re as likely to find wine-world insiders at the bar as you are to see a table of ten preteens celebrating a birthday by the brick oven, where charry-crusted Neapolitan pizzas emerge to match a perfectly solid list of Italian wines. So nobody told you to ask for the special list? Your loss. Brad Bonnewell has archived his collection in two volumes of tiny type, from ample vertical arrays of rare Barolos to ancient and modern Tuscans and a host of California cabernets. Ask for the list. You can even ask for a magnifying glass if you need it. They have that, too.
Is Eric Ripert’s Le Bernardin the finest fish restaurant of any port on the planet? It may well be the finest in New York, where it sets a standard for fine dining and provides a training ground for aspiring chefs—and for sommeliers, who come to work with Master Sommelier Aldo Sohm. It’s not just his list—some 900 labels, rich in carefully cellared classics and dotted with unexpected bargains (a racy feinherb riesling from von Hövel in Germany’s Saar; an elegant Judith Beck blaufränkisch from Austria)—but also his friendly, gracious tableside manner.
April 2017: With Eric Ripert in the kitchen and Aldo Sohm on the floor, Le Bernardin may well be the finest fish restaurant of any port on the planet. It’s not just Sohm’s list—some 900 labels deep, rich in carefully cellared classics as well as unexpected bargains; it’s also his friendly, gracious tableside manner.
Head here for absinthe service, either drip with a sugar cube, or mixed in a colada-riff with rhum, crème de menthe, pineapple and coconut; if the green fairy isn’t your thing, choose from any number of Sherry-based cocktails. Add in a trellised backyard, suspender-clad barmen and one of the city’s deepest selections of oysters on the half shell and there’s no reason not to linger by the marble bar.
April 2017: While we love Sauvage, the newest project from Krystof Zizka and Joshua Boissy, nothing beats Maison Premiere when it comes to absinthe and oysters (or Sherry, if that’s more your style)—especially when it’s warm enough to sit in the backyard.
Sean Josephs had been a restaurant wine buyer when he teamed up with Michael Tsoumpas, an American whiskey collector, to open Char No. 4 in 2008. The restaurant brought bacon, Kentucky Bourbon and Tennessee whiskey together in Cobble Hill, well north of the Smoky Mountains or the Ohio River port town of Maysville, believed to be the site of the first Kentucky distillery. Now Maysville, along with the distillations of more than 170 American masters working in wheat, rye, corn and blended American whiskeys, has settled into Manhattan. Located on a block in the upper Flatiron district of wholesale trinkets and sari shops, the restaurant joins NoMad and the Ace Hotel’s Breslin in transforming this neighborhood into a culinary mecca. Josephs hired Kyle Knall, late of Gramercy Tavern, to riff on smoke in food, and not just to satisfy the whiskey buffs at the bar. Knall’s food is subtle and complex enough to warrant an investment in one of the bottles off Josephs’ extensive wine list. Consider the subtleties of smoke in a Raveneau Chablis Valmur 1998, a Leflaive Bâtard 1999 or Drouhin’s Montrachet Marquis de la Guiche from 1993. These Burgundies have a place with Knall’s slow-roasted arctic char over cabbage, parsnips and mussels. The smoked trout is made for riesling, especially one of the J.J. Prüms, von Schuberts or Dönnhoffs from the 1980s and 1990s. If you stop in for lunch, try the grilled fish sandwich with Pépière’s Muscadet, or kale salad with duck confit alongside Sunier Fleurie. It’s the sort of menu and wine list that will keep you coming back for more, especially if you like to start your evening with a one-ounce taste of Lincoln Henderson’s Angel’s Envy or a small-batch Bourbon from Hirsch.
April 2017: A southern watering hole just north of the Flatiron Building, Maysville may be best known for its extensive American whiskey collection, but the wine list is one of the city’s unsung gems. Sean Josephs—who now divides his time between New York and New Orleans, where he and his wife, Mani Dawes, run Kenton’s—floats a highly personal wine list packed with well-aged Burgundy for the whole smoked trout, and Rhône and Barolo picks at excellent prices. —Tara Q. Thomas
As close as you can get to three-star dining in a sculpture garden, The Modern’s stark white dining room is separated from the MoMA’s outdoor collection only by glass. Michaël Engelmann and his sommelier team have built the list to 2,800 selections, which you can enjoy in the formal dining room with Abram Bissell’s elegant food, or in the casual barroom on a break from the galleries.
April 2017: When The Modern reopened this past fall after a kitchen overhaul, the space felt warmer and more open, with clearer sight lines from bar to dining room to the MoMA sculpture garden just outside the windows. The warmth is echoed in the wine list, newly expanded to some 3,000 selections, particularly in areas close to Michael Engelmann’s heart—like Australia, where the Master Sommelier headed up the list at Rockpool Bar & Grill in Sydney. It’s a terrific place to stop in for a glass of wine on break from the galleries or settle into a full-on dinner of Abram Bissell’s elegant food. — T.Q.T.
This is no gyro joint. Kamal Kouiri has assembled hundreds of Greek wines—some he’s patiently cellared, others he’s imported himself—to create a list that would be hard to match in Athens. It’s reason enough to go to Molyvos—but when perusing the menu, don’t miss the wild greens pie—an addition from consulting chef and Greek cuisine expert Diane Kochilas.
April 2017: The best Greek wine list in the world? Quite possibly, thanks to Kamal Kouiri’s insatiable thirst for everything Greek. And there’s plenty of sparkling fresh fish and lusty, country-style Greek dishes to go with it.
Chef John Fraser, of Dovetail on the Upper West Side, has taken his locavore cooking downtown to Narcissa, anchoring the Standard East Village hotel. While this isn’t a vegetarian restaurant by any means, the vegetable-driven dishes shine, radiating a brightness reflected in the open kitchen, blond wood furniture and airy interior. Take the carrot Wellington, a flaky crust wrapped around a hearty filling of carrots and sunchokes; or beets cooked rotisserie-style, their garnet hue set off by horseradish-spiked yogurt. To drink, Ashley Santoro continues the mission she began at Casa Mono to encourage more Sherry drinking, with an entire page of offerings (don’t miss the salt-baked oysters with a glass of Innocente Fino). There’s also a deep list of domestic selections focused on American tastemakers such as Arnot-Roberts, Hirsch, Clos Saron and Sandhi, with back vintages of icons like Corison and Qupé, and a wealth of well-priced grower Champagnes and classic Burgundies.
April 2016: Can a salad actually be exciting? It can here, and so can the vegetables, which chef John Fraser treats with a respect more frequently accorded to meat. (See Carrots Wellington, above.) It gets even better when you dig into Ashley Santoro’s wine list, rich in Sherry and even richer in micro-production Champagne.
April 2017: At this NoHo restaurant, chef John Fraser takes vegetables and positions them center stage. (Cue the rotisserie-crisped beets and carrots Wellington.) Wine director Ashley Santoro has cultivated a wine list as fresh as the food, shining a spotlight on Sherry and microproduction sparklers like Combe Pétillant-Naturel Trousseau and Agrapart Champagne Blanc de Blancs. —Deanna Gonnella
There’s a bronzed pineapple atop the tap lines at the bar at Noreetuh, a nod to both the Hawaiian influence and the hospitality at this sleek little restaurant in NYC’s East Village. Run by Chung Chow, a chef raised in Hawaii, alongside Gerald San Jose and Jin Ahn, two former colleagues at Per Se, Noreetuh presents the island’s cuisine in all its complexity, with nods to the Filipino, Japanese and Korean influences that flavor it, as well as a good bit of classical French technique. To drink, Ahn sticks to what he knows best: France. Heavy on Burgundy, with bottles like Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet and Domaine Roulot Aligoté, the list also makes detours into lesser-known areas, like the Savoie for Quénard Jacquère and Savennières for multiple vintages from Nicolas Joly. There are plenty of bubbles, from Champagne and farther afield, and a page devoted entirely to German riesling. Most bottles run under $100, and are pitch-perfect with dishes like corned beef tongue musubi—upping the ante from the Spam version—and tempura-fried mushrooms with a silky miso sauce.
April 2016: Chung Chow, Gerald San Jose and Jin Ahn apply the same sort of attention to detail they did at Per Se, only here they’re focused on Hawaiian food, with nods to the Filipino, Japanese and Korean influences that flavor it. They also offer the same sort of wine, with a list heavy on Burgundy and Champagne, and a page devoted entirely to German riesling. The difference: Most bottles here run under $100.
Click here for Noreetuh‘s Tuna Poke recipe.
April 2017: Chung Chow, Gerald San Jose and Jin Ahn apply the same attention to detail they did at Per Se, here focused on the food culture of Hawaii, with nods to the Filipino, Japanese and Korean influences that flavor it. Jin Ahn’s list is also focused on the food, heavy on Burgundy, Champagne and German riesling, with most bottles running under $100.
A more upscale direction for Patrick Capiello and Branden McRill, owners of the wine-geek mecca Pearl & Ash down the street, Rebelle offers an epic 80-plus page wine list split between France and the US. But rather than dividing Old World and New, head sommelier Kimberly Prokoshyn blends the two together, organizing the list by variety. “I hope to show the relationship between French and American wines,” Prokoshyn explains, “how we learn and are inspired by each other.” Her gentle markups keep the list accessible, as does her team’s refreshingly inclusive approach that spans all styles and aesthetics. After all, where else could you start with a bottle of cloudy pét-nat rosé from the Loire’s La Grange Tiphaine, proceed to a steely Finger Lakes riesling or a North Coast trousseau from Arnot-Roberts, and finish with a mature vintage of Haut-Brion or Roumier Bonnes-Mares?
April 2017: A more upscale direction for Patrick Cappiello and Branden McRill, Rebelle offers an epic 80-plus-page wine list equally split between France and the US. But rather than dividing Old World and New, head sommelier Kimberly Prokoshyn blends the two together, organizing the list by variety. Her gentle markups keep the list accessible, as does her team’s refreshingly inclusive approach that spans all styles and aesthetics.
St. Anselm is the democratic response to the New York steakhouse aristocracy. Owner Joe Carroll’s wine list is remarkably broad and approachable, with values from around the world. To complement the kitchen’s massive grill, which touches nearly every dish on the menu, drink earthy and bold—perhaps a smoky mourvedre from La Clarine Farm or a textured skin-contact ribolla gialla from Kabaj. Grab a beer (or two) next door at the restaurant’s sister bar, Spuyten Duyvil, until your table is ready. The signature steak—a $24 hangar cut—is worth the wait.
Everyone talks about the pizza here, but let’s talk about the wine list: Amanda Smeltz takes the provenance of her wines as seriously as the chefs do the food (which is significant: They grow much of the produce themselves, and provide a home base for Heritage Radio Network to broadcast shows about farmers and food.) The list is a paean to the undersung, funky and fringe, full of orange wines, Austrian obscurities, Hungarian varieties and alternative Italians. Start with the Strohmeier Schilcher—a cloudy, pale sparkling red from Western Styria that’s built for charcuterie—and work from there.
April 2017: Lowlife alum Hugh Crickmore took over the wine program at this Brooklyn icon last year, maintaining a focus on small, artisan producers, with bottles like Enfer d’Arvier from Danilo Thomain or Il Censo’s savory Praruar. Between the pizza and the wine, Roberta’s remains worth braving the crowds on the L train and at the door.
Pascaline Lepeltier came to New York from France to open Rouge Tomate, a vast paean to healthy dining on 60th Street, just east of Fifth Avenue. During the six years of the restaurant’s life, Lepeltier became a Master Sommelier, and her relationship with healthy dining took on a more radical cast. When the rent went skyward, Lepeltier and Emmanual Verstraeten decided to build a new Rouge Tomate from scratch, converting two old red-brick carriage houses in Chelsea into a chic and cozy den of deliciously responsible food and wine. The aesthetic of chef Andy Bennett’s dishes is as earthy as the barn-wood walls, with the same careful attention to perfect joinery, especially when it comes to their tight fit with the grounded flavors and textures of naturally fermented chenin blanc, Lepeltier’s passion. In the new space, it’s the list that’s vast, focused on organic and biodynamic wine, including bottles from the Finger Lakes (Bloomer Creek and Emerald Road Farm) as well as Jauma and Lucci in South Australia, with all of Europe in between. She’s also priced the wines to move: You can drink a bottle of Cacique Maravilla’s País Pipeño from Chile’s Itata Valley for $32, or a bottle of Dauvissat 2005 Chablis for $105. Go soon and go often, or you might be tempted to order too many bottles at once.
April 2017: In an old red-brick carriage house in Chelsea, Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier and chef Andy Bennett have created a chic and cozy den of deliciously responsible food and wine. The aesthetic of the dishes is as earthy as the barn-wood walls, with the same careful attention to perfect joinery, especially when it comes to their tight fit with the grounded flavors and textures of naturally fermented chenin blanc, Lepeltier’s passion. She’s built a vast list, focused on organic and biodynamic wine, including bottles from friends in the Finger Lakes (Bloomer Creek and Emerald Road Farm) as well as Jauma and Lucci in South Australia, with all of Europe in between—everything priced to move. Go soon and go often, or you might be tempted to order too many bottles at once.
A partnership between Racines owner David Lanher, sommelier Arnaud Tronche and David Lillie of Chambers Street Wines one block away, Racines is a Francophile’s dream. Champagnes from the likes of Jérôme Prévost and Cédric Bouchard lead into a list heavy in Loire bottles, including aged Pépière Muscadet, Cazin Cour-Cheverny and magnums of Riffault Sancerre. Let the knowledgeable staff fill your glass. Then order some food: Marseilles-born chef Frédéric Duca has a light hand in the kitchen, turning out wine-friendly dishes like farro and shaved mushrooms with lardo whipped into a cream, or sweetbreads roasted with caraway seeds.
April 2016: France native Arnaud Tronche and David Lillie, the Loire expert who runs Chambers Street Wines down the block, have made this o shoot of the well-regarded Paris bistrot à vins the place to drink for anyone interested in high-quality, low-intervention wines. The Loire list, in particular, is unmatched in New York, rich in aged Muscadet and other unexpected wonders. Props to Frédéric Duca, a chef from Marseilles, who respects the wine with his understated, elegant dishes.
April 2017: At this offshoot of the Paris bistrots à vins, owner Arnaud Tronche packs the wine list with wine-geek catnip—pages of Jura whites, long lists of aged Vouvray, verticals in red and white Burgundy, plus cult classics like Trévallon, Hauvette and Tempier—while Marseilles-born chef Frédéric Duca respects the wine with understated, elegant dishes. France may get the most extensive coverage but Tronche’s selections from Germany to California are just as savvy, focused on low-intervention wines at terrific prices.
Since 1996, this has been the Midtown choice for anyone interested in sake and the izakaya fare to go with it. Go for the seasonal sake specials—if you can find the place, through the anonymous entrance to an office building and down the stairs.
It is rare to find a Japanese restaurant with a wine list as extensive as the sake list, and few can compete with the new Restaurant Row branch of Sushi Seki. It’s the flagship for chef Seki Shi, who developed a following when he took over Sushi Hatsu on the Upper East Side in 2002. Here he’s enlisted a team of pros to build the beverage lists: Yasuyuki Suzuki, formerly of Brushstroke, 15 East and SakaMai, takes charge of the sake; Rick Zouad, former sommelier at Masa and Sushi Nakazawa, takes care of the whiskey, cocktails and wine. The best use of all this knowledge is to go omakase. Suzuki and Zouad approach beverages the way Seki approaches fish: with reverence for provenance but little patience for rules. Depending on what’s on your plate, you might end up discovering a flavorful Japanese beer, like the Ozeno Yukidoke IPA from sake brewers Ryujin Shuzo, or a new-wave sake like Tedorigawa Kinka, a vivacious nama daiginjo as blossom-filled as the label suggests. Or maybe you’ll have a face-off between a crisp, clean sochu and a saline Santorini—everything in the name of showing off the sparkling fresh sushi.
Step down to the heavy wooden door on East 82nd Street and enter another time. A quiet crowd, firmly middle aged and beyond, fills the tables, discreetly spaced in a long white room. Tina Vaughn will review the menu she has scripted by hand, with the kind of intimate knowledge that comes from marriage to the chef, Chip Smith. She is equally intimate with the wines on her list, an eclectic mix based largely on selections from importer Neil Rosenthal, who helped the couple find their partner in the restaurant, Robert Margolis. Try the savory tart, with its airy puff pastry and deeply flavored onions melted into veal stock, a dish that feels straight out of a chic country inn in the southwest of France. Vaughn might pour Montenidoli’s Il Templare Vernaccia with it, and then decant a bottle of Ataíde Semedo’s Bairrada ($39!) to pour with the duck, its breast pink, its leg slow roasted, plated with a fan of fruit purees. The lamb and venison are equally tender and satisfying, drawing in the curious from the neighborhood, who are fast becoming regulars.
April 2016 Update: Step down to the heavy wooden door on East 82nd Street and enter another time. A quiet crowd, firmly middle-aged and beyond, fills the tables, discreetly spaced in a long white room. Tina Vaughn will review the menu she has scripted by hand, with the kind of intimate knowledge that comes from marriage to the chef, Chip Smith. She is equally intimate with the wines on her list, an eclectic mix based largely on selections from importer Neil Rosenthal, who helped the couple find their partner in the restaurant, Robert Margolis. Try the savory tart, with its airy puff pastry and deeply flavored onions melted into veal stock, a dish that feels straight out of a chic country inn in the southwest of France. Vaughn might pour Montenidoli’s Il Templare Vernaccia with it, and then decant a bottle of Ataíde Semedo’s Bairrada to pour with the duck, its breast pink, its leg slow roasted, plated with a fan of fruit purées.
April 2017: There’s nothing like The Simone in NYC, a quiet, opulent restaurant with the warmth of a chic French country inn. Tina Vaughn knows every dish intimately—an advantage that comes from marriage to the chef, Chip Smith—and she’ll find you something wonderful to drink off her list, an eclectic mix that ranges all over Europe, with many selections from importer Neal Rosenthal, who helped the couple find their partner in the restaurant, Robert Margolis.
But perhaps the strongest evidence that NYC has embraced Spanish cuisine in all its variety is at Toro, a sprawling space in an area more known for nightclubs than places you go to actually eat. Get past the bankers and the models and check out the menu: Sea urchin (erizo) appears in crudo form, sprinkled with pickled mustard seeds, lemon gelée and sea salt; there’s more erizo in a bocadillo and in suquet de mariscos, blended with lobster and parsnip in a creamy sauce. Txiperones a la plancha are as tiny as the tip of a pinkie, charred on the grill, served with a fried farm egg and toasty croutons; setas are served with the yolk of a farm egg to stir in yourself. All of these would be terrific with the Champagnes on the extensive wine list, like Pierre Péters, or with a romarantin from the Loire. But there’s plenty to keep you focused on the Iberian side of the list, including a Niepoort Vinho Verde and an Aphros sparkling vinhão, not to mention multiple Txakoli, white and red, and godellos from Galicia. Order the Cune Imperial 2001 Gran Reserva with the chorizo, thin slices that melt in your mouth to make the Rioja taste that much better and you might as well be in Spain.
April 2017: Led by Jamie Bissonnette and Ken Oringer, this West Side palace of Ibérico ham, paella and tapas boasts one of the most important Spanish-heavy wine lists in New York. Going against the grain of the typical brand-focused Spanish wine list, Caitlin Doonan presents a broad spectrum of Sherry, hard-to-find, mineral-inflected whites and unheralded reds of Green Spain. She also spotlights the soils of Rioja, and separates vinos de bodega from vinos de terruño. Arrive shortly after the doors open to have a “mine, all mine!” moment in the expansive space, grab a seat at the bar for some vermut and octopus and wrap it up with a walk on the Hudson. —Sarah Sutel Looper
Paul Grieco, the circus barker of riesling, the tattooed decanter of pink wines, the evangelist of Fino and Amontillado, continues to push the envelope with his wine list at this Tribeca bar, where legends of the wine world join him regularly as guest sommeliers.
April 2017: Paul Grieco, the circus barker of riesling, the tattooed decanter of pink wines, the evangelist of Fino and Amontillado, continues to push the envelope with his wine list at this Tribeca bar, where legends of the wine world join him regularly as guest sommeliers
The scene took on a new degree of intensity when, last spring, Evil Twin Brewing honcho Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø left his native Copenhagen and relocated with his family to Greenpoint, Brooklyn, to help open Tørst, a neo-Nordic temple to haute beer. The Danish expat’s Scandinavian sensibilities permeate the space, with stylish teak wood tables set along one side of the room and an austere white marble bar along the other. On any given night, about a third of the 21 rotating draft selections—poured from a hi-tech draft system dubbed the “Flux Capacitor”—are dedicated to Evil Twin’s brews, ranging from the evanescent 2.7 percent abv Bikini Beer to the inky, commanding Bourbon barrel–aged imperial stout, Even More Jesus. Other drafts come from acclaimed domestic and international microbrewers, like Vermont’s Hill Farmstead and Cologne’s Freigeist Bierkultur. The expansive bottle list includes rare vintages from the likes of Cantillon, De Dolle and Drie Fonteinen. Luksus, a miniscule restaurant concealed in Tørst’s teeny-tiny back room, is where chef and co-owner Daniel Burns, who put in time at Momofuku Labs and Noma, churns out a $95 five-course tasting menu of ascetic but wildly flavorful Nordic-inspired dishes, paired exclusively with beer.
April 2016 Update: No place in New York takes beer as seriously as Tørst. There’s the custom 21-tap system that ensures the perfect pour with precise temperature and carbonation controls, and there’s the sheer number of beers and ales that Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø of Evil Twin Brewing has compiled. The lengthy bottle list includes selections from renowned American breweries like Crooked Stave and Prairie Artisan Ales as well as European ones—check out the Fantôme and De Molen, which are nearly impossible to find elsewhere. Bottle options show off the complexity of Brettanomyces-influenced farmhouse beers, the souring impact of Lactobacillus in aged Belgian lambic and the effects of barrel aging on a wide range of styles. And the team knows the stories behind each beer: where it comes from, the people who made it and why it’s significant. —Zach Siegel
April 2017: Tørst takes beer as seriously as any top restaurant takes wine. There’s the custom 21-tap system that ensures precise temperature and carbonation for the perfect pour. The sheer number of beers and ales that Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø of Evil Twin Brewing and beverage manager Mike Amidei have compiled make this a haven for beer heads and wine lovers alike. —Zach B. Siegel
Sandwiched between the Hudson River and the southern terminus of the High Line, the Whitney Museum’s new home is the latest transformation of NYC’s Meatpacking District. Renzo Piano designed the cantilevered building, creating a sheltered public space below and a glassed-in restaurant that looks stark and minimalist from the outside. Inside, wooden tables form a line under fi ve enormous peach-colored domes; their warm light over the blond wood of the bar at the open kitchen makes the space seems comfortable and welcoming, especially as Michael Anthony’s food starts arriving. Try the fluke with lime, fish roe and pickled jalapeño. Eduardo Porto Carreiro, formerly of Boulud Sud and DBGB, would suggest the Stein Mosel Blue Slate Dry Riesling, and it’s a perfect fit. His list includes a number of Loire reds to play against the vegetable section of the menu: A postmodern take on roast carrots and a cauliflower curry works particularly well with Clos de Maulévrier’s Franc de Pied Ante Phylloxera, Marc Plouzeau’s cabernet franc from own-rooted vines. By the time the chicken arrives, roasted and fried, with tatsoi and dill sauce, the wine is hitting its stride and Untitled feels like a modern art atelier with the city on consignment behind the glass.
April 2016 Update: Danny Meyer’s team at Union Square Hospitality Group is busy reinventing the museum restaurant, having conquered MoMA and now wrestling with the Meatpacking District at Renzo Piano’s new Whitney Museum of American Art. Tucked under the massive building, in what looks to be a stark, glass-enclosed cafeteria, you’ll find the warmth of Michael Anthony’s cooking and the brilliance of Eduardo Porto-Carreiro’s wine selections. The list is everywhere you want to be, whether that’s Champagne, Loire, Mosel, Chablis or the Rhône, with enough depth in all the right places, and enough interest in tiny esoteric spaces to keep you coming back.
April 2017: Whether you come for the art and stay for dinner, or come for the wine and just soak in Renzo Piano’s dramatic, sun-drenched space, there are plenty of reasons to return, thanks to Eduardo Porto Carreiro’s wine list. It’s everywhere you want to be, if that happens to be Champagne, Loire, Mosel, Chablis or the Rhône, with enough interest in esoteric places to keep you coming back.
Jody Williams of Buvette and Rita Sodi of I Sodi partnered in this warm, inviting new space with a wall of windows looking out onto Grove Street in the West Village. Before you get to a table, head to the bar for an IPA on tap or Monteraponi Chianti Classico by the glass. Then create your own antipasti, choosing liberally from the verdure. It’s the longest section of the menu, and provides some of the most memorable tastes, whether fried cardoons or cavalo, a plate of braised kale with chunks of bacon. When you get to your table, ask the server to decant the 2006 Bussia Soprano, a Barolo ready to cozy up to pappardelle with boar ragù, and the svizzerina, a seared chopped steak garnished with a sprig of rosemary that will suddenly make any hamburger you’ve ever eaten seem irrelevant.
April 2016 Update: There’s nothing pretentious about this West Village Italian. The drinks are bitter and bracing; the standout swizzerina is essentially a hamburger without the distraction of a bun. It’s everything we love about Jody Williams (of nearby Buvette) and Rita Sodi (I Sodi), only better, with an all-Italian wine list priced to encourage drinking. —Tara Q. Thomas
April 2017: There’s nothing pretentious about this West Village Italian spot. The drinks are bitter and bracing; the standout svizzerina is essentially a hamburger without the distraction of a bun. It’s everything we love about Jody Williams (of nearby Buvette) and Rita Sodi (of I Sodi), with an all-Italian wine list priced to encourage drinking.
There’s no better place in Harlem to get a good glass of wine than this sleek corner spot. Owner Yvette Leeper-Bueno keeps the pours as eclectic as the music, with options like Filipa Pato’s sparkling baga from Portugal, Montsant from Sara Perez, and Forlorn Hope’s California-grown St. Laurent—and Mediterranean-inflected dishes to match.
April 2017: With Filipa Pato sparkling baga and I Clivi Friulano by the glass and a bottle list full of Mediterranean gems under $100, Yvette Leeper-Bueno’s cozy corner space continues to be the best spot in Harlem to grab a glass of wine and a bite.
At Contra, chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske challenge diners with unexpected flavor combinations. At Wildair, their new wine bar just down the street, it’s the wine list that does the provoking. Wine director Jorge Riera has built his list around small-production, low-intervention producers, most often from France and Italy, and with particular attention to those who play outside appellation rules. A lengthy roster of pét-nats sets the tone for the list, rife with little-known producers like Costadilà, which makes Prosecco in Italy’s Veneto, and Jean-Yves Peron, who works with altesse, mondeuse and jacquère in France’s Savoie. The still wines are no less intriguing, with cult favorites like Eric Pfifferling Tavel and the Dard & Ribo Rhônes. Any bottle makes a great excuse to order up bar snacks like the unreasonably light and lemon-kissed fried squid and a surprisingly complex lettuce-and-chervil salad. You could make a light meal from the beef tartare, crunchy with buckwheat and enriched with smoked cheddar, or the juicy head-on shrimp, especially in tandem with the house-made sourdough bread.
April 2016 Update: At Contra, chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske challenge diners with unexpected flavor combinations. At Wildair, their wine bar just down the street, it’s Jorge Riera who provokes drinkers with his wine list. He built it around small production, biodynamic wines, most often from France and Italy, with particular attention to those made outside appellation rules. A lengthy list of pét-nats sets the tone, including little-known producers like Costadila, who makes Prosecco in Italy’s Veneto, and Jean-Yves Peron, who works with altesse, mondeuse and jacquère in France’s Savoie. The still wines are no less intriguing, with cult favorites like Eric Pfifferling’s Tavel and the Dard & Ribo Rhônes. And then there’s the beef tartare, crunchy with buckwheat and enriched with smoked cheddar…
April 2017: Wildair is consistently packed, drawing people in with what’s likely the longest selection of pét-nats in the city, as well as a cellar packed with small-production, biodynamic producers from around the world, at encouraging prices. It’s the work of Jorge Riera, whose list is as challenging and delicious as the food turned out by Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske. The team also runs Contra, just up the street.