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Restaurant Reviews for Italy

posted on December 6, 2017
Hostaria Al Vecchio Portico
review by Sarah Looper

The Jewel on Lago Maggiore

It’s worth the 45-minute drive from Milan to dine at Hostaria al Vecchio Portico, a cozy, 12-table restaurant facing Lago Maggiore in Arona, on the lake’s western edge. It feels as though you’ve been invited into someone’s home ...Read the full review

posted on July 16, 2015
review by Marisa Huff

Andrea Lorenzon is the host and sole proprietor of the 14-seat “enoiteca” CoVino, arguably Venice’s most enjoyable place to dine at the moment. He’s a carbon copy of his father Mauro (see Maschereta), but ...Read the full review

posted on July 15, 2015
Al Covo
review by Marisa Huff

Al Covo is a favorite among discerning diners, and for good reason. Chef-owner Cesare Benelli serves meticulously sourced ingredients prepared simply: vegetables from Sant’Erasmo island and other lagoon gardens; fish from the Adriatic; and a number of Slow Food Presidia products, like biancoperla polenta. Daily specials might include ...Read the full review

posted on July 14, 2015
Al Mercà
review by Marisa Huff

For decades, Rialto has been a hub of Venetian wine bars or bàcari (bàcaro being the singular). The best one—All’Arco—serves simple, no-name wines from the Veneto and die-hard Venetian bar snacks like mezzi ovi, half a hard-boiled egg topped with an anchovy, or seppie ...Read the full review

posted on July 13, 2015
Enoiteca Maschereta
review by Marisa Huff

Seasoned wine vendor, wine maker and, most importantly, wine drinker, Mauro Lorenzon is a legend in Venetian wine circles. His “enoiteca,” a term he coined back in 1990 to describe a wine store (enoteca) that also serves food and pours wines by the glass, caters to well-informed tourists and industry ...Read the full review

posted on July 10, 2015
Vino Vero
review by Marisa Huff

Fondamenta Misericordia has long been a go-to destination for thirsty locals. The long, canal-facing walkway hidden deep in Cannaregio is populated by a string of mediocre cafes, pubs and osterie, where Campari spritzes flow freely and wine is primarily poured from a spout. In that context, the new Vino ...Read the full review