Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Villanelle


Precise, seasonally driven food is the name of the game at Villanelle, a new Greenwich Village spot just steps from the Union Square Greenmarket. The unassuming mushroom dish should be called “more mushrooms”—a hunk of meaty portobello suspended in an herb infused mushroom tea and purée, topped with a heaping mound of crispy black trumpets; the season’s first sugar snap peas are coddled in crème fraîche with Thai basil and mint. The folks behind the bar pay homage to the market as well, working under general manager James Shields’s belief that anything purchased from the farmers’ market can be utilized in a cocktail. Bitters, amaro, orgeat, tinctures, three types of oleo saccharum and dozens of syrups are all made in house, from scratch, daily. The lemon oleo gives a Negroni riff a new lease on life in their Felted in Davos.