Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Via Carota


Jody Williams of Buvette and Rita Sodi of I Sodi partnered in this warm, inviting new space with a wall of windows looking out onto Grove Street in the West Village. Before you get to a table, head to the bar for an IPA on tap or Monteraponi Chianti Classico by the glass. Then create your own antipasti, choosing liberally from the verdure. It’s the longest section of the menu, and provides some of the most memorable tastes, whether fried cardoons or cavalo, a plate of braised kale with chunks of bacon. When you get to your table, ask the server to decant the 2006 Bussia Soprano, a Barolo ready to cozy up to pappardelle with boar ragù, and the svizzerina, a seared chopped steak garnished with a sprig of rosemary that will suddenly make any hamburger you’ve ever eaten seem irrelevant.


April 2016 Update: There’s nothing pretentious about this West Village Italian. The drinks are bitter and bracing; the standout swizzerina is essentially a hamburger without the distraction of a bun. It’s everything we love about Jody Williams (of nearby Buvette) and Rita Sodi (I Sodi), only better, with an all-Italian wine list priced to encourage drinking. —Tara Q. Thomas


April 2017: There’s nothing pretentious about this West Village Italian spot. The drinks are bitter and bracing; the standout svizzerina is essentially a hamburger without the distraction of a bun. It’s everything we love about Jody Williams (of nearby Buvette) and Rita Sodi (of I Sodi), with an all-Italian wine list priced to encourage drinking.

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