Restaurant Review: New York, New York

The Simone



Step down to the heavy wooden door on East 82nd Street and enter another time. A quiet crowd, firmly middle aged and beyond, fills the tables, discreetly spaced in a long white room. Tina Vaughn will review the menu she has scripted by hand, with the kind of intimate knowledge that comes from marriage to the chef, Chip Smith. She is equally intimate with the wines on her list, an eclectic mix based largely on selections from importer Neil Rosenthal, who helped the couple find their partner in the restaurant, Robert Margolis. Try the savory tart, with its airy puff pastry and deeply flavored onions melted into veal stock, a dish that feels straight out of a chic country inn in the southwest of France. Vaughn might pour Montenidoli’s Il Templare Vernaccia with it, and then decant a bottle of Ataíde Semedo’s Bairrada ($39!) to pour with the duck, its breast pink, its leg slow roasted, plated with a fan of fruit purees. The lamb and venison are equally tender and satisfying, drawing in the curious from the neighborhood, who are fast becoming regulars.


April 2016 Update: Step down to the heavy wooden door on East 82nd Street and enter another time. A quiet crowd, firmly middle-aged and beyond, fills the tables, discreetly spaced in a long white room. Tina Vaughn will review the menu she has scripted by hand, with the kind of intimate knowledge that comes from marriage to the chef, Chip Smith. She is equally intimate with the wines on her list, an eclectic mix based largely on selections from importer Neil Rosenthal, who helped the couple find their partner in the restaurant, Robert Margolis. Try the savory tart, with its airy puff pastry and deeply flavored onions melted into veal stock, a dish that feels straight out of a chic country inn in the southwest of France. Vaughn might pour Montenidoli’s Il Templare Vernaccia with it, and then decant a bottle of Ataíde Semedo’s Bairrada to pour with the duck, its breast pink, its leg slow roasted, plated with a fan of fruit purées.


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