Restaurant Review: San Francisco, California

The Morris


While running the wine program for Melissa Perello at Frances and joining Daniel Patterson as a partner at Coi, SF sommelier and all-around wine geek Paul Einbund began planning his own restaurant, stocking up wines over time. Earlier this year, he opened The Morris, a showcase for his many finds. His obsession with vintage Madeira and aged bottles of Chartreuse is front and center, while the table wines lean toward French classics, especially Chablis, the Côte d’Or, the Loire and the northern Rhône. A bottle of 2010 Dauvissat Chablis provides a clarion counterpoint to seafood-based small plates, and one of his more recent discoveries—the floral, delicate 2014 Babylone St-Joseph from Julien Cécillon—is perfect with chef Gavin Schmidt’s meltingly tender smoked Muscovy duck. But before you get to all of that, you might start with a “Chartreuse smoothie.” Its bracing herb-and-citrus chill makes a great aperitif, and is as whimsical as the wine list is serious.

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