Restaurant Review: New York, New York

The Modern

Lagostino with Smoked Cräme Fraiche Ravioli

As close as you can get to three-star dining in a sculpture garden, The Modern’s stark white dining room is separated from the MoMA’s outdoor collection only by glass. Michaël Engelmann and his sommelier team have built the list to 2,800 selections, which you can enjoy in the formal dining room with Abram Bissell’s elegant food, or in the casual barroom on a break from the galleries.

April 2017: When The Modern reopened this past fall after a kitchen overhaul, the space felt warmer and more open, with clearer sight lines from bar to dining room to the MoMA sculpture garden just outside the windows. The warmth is echoed in the wine list, newly expanded to some 3,000 selections, particularly in areas close to Michael Engelmann’s heart—like Australia, where the Master Sommelier headed up the list at Rockpool Bar & Grill in Sydney. It’s a terrific place to stop in for a glass of wine on break from the galleries or settle into a full-on dinner of Abram Bissell’s elegant food. — T.Q.T.

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