Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Sushi-Seki


It is rare to find a Japanese restaurant with a wine list as extensive as the sake list, and few can compete with the new Restaurant Row branch of Sushi Seki. It’s the flagship for chef Seki Shi, who developed a following when he took over Sushi Hatsu on the Upper East Side in 2002. Here he’s enlisted a team of pros to build the beverage lists: Yasuyuki Suzuki, formerly of Brushstroke, 15 East and SakaMai, takes charge of the sake; Rick Zouad, former sommelier at Masa and Sushi Nakazawa, takes care of the whiskey, cocktails and wine. The best use of all this knowledge is to go omakase. Suzuki and Zouad approach beverages the way Seki approaches fish: with reverence for provenance but little patience for rules. Depending on what’s on your plate, you might end up discovering a flavorful Japanese beer, like the Ozeno Yukidoke IPA from sake brewers Ryujin Shuzo, or a new-wave sake like Tedorigawa Kinka, a vivacious nama daiginjo as blossom-filled as the label suggests. Or maybe you’ll have a face-off between a crisp, clean sochu and a saline Santorini—everything in the name of showing off the sparkling fresh sushi.

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