Restaurant Review: Los Angeles, California

Saint Martha


Duck leg confit

I’m told that Saint Martha is the patron saint of servers and cooks, and presumably of tiny, bustling restaurants like this one, set in a nondescript Koreatown strip mall, supported by an even tinier kitchen. Chef Nick Erven’s menu is a continental omnibus, but his K-town environs seem to creep inadvertently onto the plates, whether hamachi crudo adorned by seaweed “doritos” or scallops spritzed with yuzu and dusted with togarashi. Mary Thompson’s wine list is small but ready to handle those culinary digressions. It’s easily the most global list in Southern California: At present, Slovenia, Australia, Austria, Georgia, Hungary, Chile, Lebanon, Switzerland, Mexico, Arizona and Virginia are all represented, augmenting the usual Old World locales—a vinous view of the world from a galleria storefront. And everything’s available by taste, glass, carafe or bottle.




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