Restaurant Review: Los Angeles, California


Redbird, in downtown’s Historic Core, has been one of the most anticipated restaurant openings in LA for what seems like years, since Neal Fraser and Amy Knoll Fraser signed a lease on the Vibiana, a majestic declassified cathedral building not far from City Hall. The Frasers teamed up with Bill Chait to overlay a restaurant in the space once occupied by the sacristy. Part inside, part outside, the dining room is open to the night sky on clear evenings. Neal Fraser’s menu is every bit as heterogeneous as it was at Grace in its heyday—braised goat gemelli and Thai-style crab soup occupy the same page—and Diane Pandolfini’s wine list is no less eclectic, a 350-bottle selection stocked with Tasmanian rieslings, California sylvaners, Slovenian rebulas and an especially strong global selection of pinot noir.