Restaurant Review: Melbourne, Australia

Lupino



A bustling, busy and polished bistro, Lupino feeds and refreshes the palates of Melbourne’s corporate and political wine and food connoisseurs, but it is in no way buttoned-down. It’s just well run. You can tell by the service, informal yet excellent. The menu ranges from a thin, simple pizza through to deft pastas or risottos, and arguably the best minute steak in the city. The wine list is short, sharp and savvy, emphasizing wines with balance and subtlety—a Terlan pinot noir from the Alto Adige or a Sobrero Dolcetto d’Alba are good examples. Australian boutique wines appear, too: Tscharke Montepul ciano, Samuel’s Gorge Shiraz, Curly Flat Pinot Noir…


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