Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria


Umbrian-born Roberto Paris started at Il Buco in 1997, helping Donna Lennard turn her NoHo antiques store-cum-café into a full-fledged restaurant. His wine list became as much a draw as the food, which launched chefs like Jody Williams and Ignacio Mattis to culinary fame. That restaurant is still very much worth a detour, but for everyday dining, head a couple doors down to Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria. To step inside is to be transported to a small bar in Italy, where the neighborhood congregates for coffee at 8am and comes back for a glass of wine at lunch. The list showcases lesser-known Italians by the glass, like passerina del Fruisinate from Lazio or top-notch Müller-Thurgau, while the bottle list draws attention for its back vintages and boldly personal flavor. Collections from Lebanon’s Musar and Rioja’s López de Heredia mingle among the Italians, as does Argentina’s Bodegas Chacra, run by Tuscan vintner Piero Incisa della Rocchetta. Together with house baker Sheena Otto’s bread, it’s reason enough to become a regular.

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