Restaurant Review: Cleveland, Ohio

Heinen’s


For proof of Cleveland’s revitalization, one need look no further than the recent opening of Heinen’s Fine Foods, a longstanding Cleveland grocer that operates two dozen suburban stores in the Midwest. The grocery is the first urban location for the company, and the building alone is impressive: a turn-of-the-century neoclassical showstopper that has been closed to the public for more than a quarter century. Designed by George Post, who later planned the New York Stock Exchange, the imposing structure boasts a marble column–ringed central lobby crowned with a stained-glass dome that may have been designed by Lewis Comfort Tiffany. The wine department is under the rotunda, a second-floor aerie with over 1,000 selections, 48 of them available to taste in one-, three- or five ounce pours from a self-service wine dispenser. That’s the pride of Ed Thompkins, wine and beer buyer, who stocks it with wines like the 2007 Château Haut-Brion Blanc, offering a one-ounce taste for just $18.