Restaurant Review: Minneapolis, Minnesota

Esker Grove



At Esker Grove in the Walker Art Center, Doug Flicker is creating dishes as noteworthy as the museum’s avant-garde art. Flicker, who previously ran Auriga and Piccolo—which Anthony Bourdain called “the most inspired and inspiring” restaurant in the country—turns out beautifully presented dishes that delight the palate every bit as much as the eye, like spit-roasted sturgeon with hearts of palm, harissa and caramelized lemons, or endive-farro salad with blue cheese and smoked honey. Jon Olson’s wine list is similarly offbeat yet approachable, with aligoté, auxerrois and gamay by the glass and grower Champagne by the bottle, including the Moussé Fils Blanc de Noirs.