Restaurant Review: Seattle, Washington

Damn the Weather


Rhuby Collins. Bourbon, lemon, rhubarb syrup and juice, mint and soda.

Seattle’s Pioneer Square neighborhood is undergoing a renaissance headlined, in large part, by Damn the Weather, Bryn Lumsden’s new bar/restaurant. Before opening this pared-down, industry-friendly space, Lumsden managed Belltown’s Rob Roy. Now Lumsden works alongside a handful of bartending all-stars, including former Sambar tender, Jay Kuehner; they keep things inviting and easy, mixing intriguing sippers like The Gitano, a summery marriage of pisco and amontillado with touches of amaro and apricot liqueur. Eli Dahlin came from Seattle’s Walrus and Carpenter oyster bar to lead Damn the Weather’s kitchen, where he whips up charcuterie plates sporting cuttlefish “mortadella” and fries crisped in chicken fat as if it’s no big deal. Be sure to order the legend-in-the-making Caesar salad sandwich, its deftly dressed Romaine leaves tucked between thick slices of toasted house-baked brioche with a runny egg cooked into it, toad-in-the-hole-style. It’s Seattle’s dish of the year.

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The Gitano

from Bryn Lumsden, Damn the Weather