Restaurant Review: Portland, Oregon

Dame



Even if you enter as a natural-wine nonbeliever, you might get religion after a night at Dame. Opened by co-owners Dana Frank (pictured right; formerly of Ava Gene’s) and Jane Smith (The Knock Back), the 37-seat space echoes a wine nook in the Marais district of Paris, with rustic wood floors, a marble-topped bar, eclectic art and antique mirrors. Frank’s leather-bound, 150-plus bottle list leans to fervent biodynamic renegades like Vouette et Sorbée in Champagne and Vincent Paris in Cornas. You can try teroldego from Italy’s Elisabetta Foradori, or a spicy blend of tannat and cab franc from Domaine Brana’s hillside vineyards in the French Pyrénées. A minimalist menu by Tyler Jaskey (previously of Dudley Market in LA) offers shareable plates like lemon-kissed scallops, a sprat-studded salad and roasted halibut collar with dill and cardamom.