Restaurant Review: Chicago, Illinois

Daisies


“Imagine if you plucked a chef out of Italy and made him cook usingthe bounty of the US Midwest.” That’s how Joe Frillman, chef-owner of Daisies in Chicago’s Logan Square, describes his menu, focused on tender, house-made pastas with local flavors, like beets and smoked trout roe, or tajarin with chicken cracklins. It’s as exciting and unexpected as GM Keith Whitten’s all-US wine list, an array of wines that go well beyond the expected varietals to include bottles like Wind Gap Trousseau Gris or McPherson Cellars’ Les Copains, a Rhône blend out of Texas. For a surprising, hyperlocal pairing, try Frillman’s elegant take on fried mushrooms and cheese curds with a glass of the Illinois Sparkling Wine Co. Ombre Rosé.