Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Cosme


The first foray into the New York dining scene for Enrique Olvera, the celebrated chef of Mexico City’s Michelin-starred Pujol, Cosme immediately announces itself as a haven for traditional Mexican flavors. Although the bare concrete floor, sleek lines and soaring ceilings might exude a slightly impersonal air, the rich scents of roasting chiles and garlic fill the space with warmth. Another kind of warmth awaits at the bar, in the form of an encyclopedic range of artisanal mezcal and Tequila, including such gems as the estate-grown Fuenteseca 9-year-old Tequila. Yana Volfson—who also consults for Russ & Daughters Cafe, compiled a wine list on par with the bar offerings. The selections from Spain represent a particular strength; for instance, imagine drinking a crisp yet fleshy godello (such as the 2012 A Coroa 200 Cestos from Valdeorras) alongside a scallop aguachile with poached jicama and fresh wasabi, cucumber and lime, or an earthy 2002 Viña Tondonia Reserva Rioja from López de Heredia to cut through a fatty plate of duck carnitas with salsa verde.