Restaurant Review: Melbourne, Australia

Comptoir



And it certainly is. A counter, a bar. That’s Comptoir. And over it come some unputdownable glasses of wine and some unmissable snacks and savories. Two of Australia’s most respected sommeliers—David Lawler and Tim Sacklin—set up Comptoir just last year with very “somm” priorities: wine fi rst, then food (good food) second. It’s hors d’oeuvres and antipasti, some excellent tinned fish and a plat du jour. There are seven or so wines by the glass—Australian boutique and cutting edge, and Old World wines with pedigree. The ultimate light luncheon venue ten minutes to the city’s north.


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