Restaurant Review: Minneapolis, Minnesota

Bellecour


Le Grand Plateau

The menu at Bellecour would look right at home in Paris’s Marais neighborhood: foie gras au torchon with strawberries, grains of paradise and toasted brioche; soupe à l’oignon; moules frites with sauce marinière; and pommes de terre infused with the drippings from the poulet rôti. Minneapolis prodigal son Gavin Kayson, who already has garnered a James Beard Award for Spoon & Stable, throws in a few Midwest touches—turnips accompany the duck à l’orange—but generally hews to the classic French bistro theme. So does pastry whiz Diane Yang. Honey vacherin with morello cherry sorbet, anyone? Meanwhile, wine director Nicolas Giraud mines every corner of his native France for gems such as a sciaccarellu-niellucciu blend from Domaine Comte Abbatucci in Corsica, or a pristine sauvignon blanc from Domaine Toterau in Quincy. Or there’s always Pol Roger Champagne served by the glass to wash down those escargots en croûte or boudin blanc.