Restaurant Review: New York, New York

Bâtard


Chicken Shnitzel

At Bâtard, the newest incarnation of the space once known as Montrachet, the only art in the room is the subtly raised branch-like filigree of the plaster, the walls one shade of pale golden amber. It would almost feel stark and modernist if it weren’t for the soul-satisfying food and equally soulful wines. Jason Jacobiet has compiled a compelling list of Burgundies, including older vintages sourced direct from winery cellars and priced attractively, and great buys from less-storied corners. For the sparkling-fresh red snapper with shaved fennel, or the terrine of octopus that chef Markus Glocker braises with a ham hock, Jacobiet reaches for wines like the 2013 Pierre-Yves Colin Morey St-Aubin En Remilly, a wine that matches the dish in clarity and freshness; for the beef cheek pot-au-feû there’s a bright, transparent Siguat 2008 Chambolle Musigny Les Fuées. But don’t go just for the Burgundy: Check out Jacobiet’s pages of everything else—a collection of wines he likes, wines that interest him—and let him steer you to the wines he loves. The man knows his list.


April 2016 Update: Go for the Burgundy—whether the older vintages that Jason Jacobeit has sourced direct from winery cellars and priced attractively, or the great buys he’s unearthed from less storied corners—and stay for Markus Glocker’s opulent Austro-French food.

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