Restaurant Review: San Francisco, California

August 1 Five


This new Indian restaurant adds to the ways tech has impacted the Bay Area. To get the level of Indian food she wanted, former Google employee Hetal Shah hired Manish Tyagi, a former chef de cuisine at Rasika in DC, who riffs on street foods and royal dishes with local ingredients. Here, gol guppa crispy pastries filled with spiced potatoes—arrive with a flight of brightly fruit-flavored waters, poured in at table to maintain the crispness and burst of flavor with each bite: biryani is made elegant with long, long grains of rice and perfectly balanced seasonings. Austin Ferrari’s tightly curated wine list is in perfect sync with the food, focused on spicy, earthy wines like Stoka teran rosé and Inconnu Sonoma County cab franc. Cocktails like Tulsi Boba and Moneypenny G&T taste even better under the watchful gaze of the Maharaja’s portrait amid lush peacock-blue walls and teal velvet booths.

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