Brunello di Montalcino is meant to be the definitive expression of sangiovese, but sangiovese continues to elude definition: It mutates readily, ripens unevenly and has an austerity that challenges winemakers to present it unadorned. Some producers seem to have it figured out, but after all these years, Brunello's identity is still taking shape.
In recent developments, Vinowire.com has been following an investigation by the prosecutor's office in Siena, in which a number of leading Brunello producers may be indicted for blending varieties other than sangiovese into their wines. For background on this breaking story, see the following excerpt from David Lynch's Brunello story, just published in our April 2008 issue.
Try ordering a vodka tonic or a rum and Coke at a high–end bar in any big city across the country. You might get a subtle scoff from the bartender as he mixes something with litsea cubeba or marinated Inca berries or bubble gum flavor. The drink he offers might carry a foam, it might emit a gaseous cloud or it might come in solid form, not even a drink at all.
